Wine sector gets climate ‘message’

NZ Herald | 5 Jun, 2023 12:00 AM

Industry thinking about the future as big changes loom.

Experimental vineyard. Photo / Jerram Tocker Barron
Experimental vineyard. Photo / Jerram Tocker Barron.

An experimental vineyard is one of the ways that science will ensure the world will still be able to enjoy New Zealand wine as the climate changes.

With the ability to fine-tune the environmental conditions, scientists at the Plant & Food Research Experimental Future Vineyard at the New Zealand Wine Centre -Te Pokapū Wāina o Aotearoa – will be able to mimic expected climate scenarios of the future.

Plants grown in the new 600sqm facility which is due for completion in 2024, will help scientists understand how different temperatures, soil types and water availability may impact grape production in the future, and provide the industry with key knowledge to help it adapt.

The experiment comes as a Plant & Food Research study suggests areas of the North Island suitable for growing Sauvignon blanc vines are likely to substantially reduce this century as climate change brings rising temperatures.

Dr Jill Stanley, Plant & Food Research Science Group Leader, Fruit Crops Physiology. Photo / Supplied
Dr Jill Stanley, Plant & Food Research Science Group Leader, Fruit Crops Physiology. Photo / Supplied

However, Plant & Food Research Science Group Leader, Fruit Crops Physiology, Dr Jill Stanley, says it is not all bad news for connoisseurs of the wine – one of New Zealand’s most popular varieties – as modelling under both low and high temperature rise scenarios also shows areas of the South Island are likely to increase in growing suitability.

“Moderate gains are predicted in Marlborough, Canterbury and central Otago under low rise scenarios, but substantial gains under higher temperatures,” she says. “By mid-century, there may be an opportunity for Canterbury and parts of Otago to become global Sauvignon blanc powerhouses, alongside Marlborough (New Zealand’s current prime Sauvignon blanc producing region, accounting for 72 per cent of output).

“So, if you like a drop of New Zealand Sauvignon blanc, you’re probably going to be okay.”

Chief Sustainability Officer, Dr Roger Robson-Williams, says Plant & Food Research is working with a variety of industry sectors, to understand what and where crops can be grown in the future. By using computers to jump in a ‘virtual time machine’, scientists can see what rainfall patterns and temperatures are going to look like in different parts of Aotearoa.

“Climate change is going to affect what we eat over time,” he says. “For wealthy nations, the impact may seem quite small at first, as they will generally have the resources to secure more-or-less whatever foods they want for the time being.

“For less developed countries, climate change will produce real issues in terms of food security; not just impacting the type of foods available but, more worryingly, it will lead to absolute scarcity of food with ever-increasing risks of crop failures around the globe. We want to make sure that New Zealand can continue to grow good, nutritious food, for ourselves and for others.”

Robson-Williams says the first step is to get a picture of what crops will grow well and where; these may be crops we already have, or new crops.

“We’re also looking at improving our current crops so they can cope better with the impacts of climate change – be it drought tolerance, resistance to different pests and diseases, or just the ability to grow in hotter conditions,” he says.

Stanley says the research contains a key message for growers and the industry: “It’s increasingly important growers start thinking about what the future holds and the adaptations they can take to mitigate and reduce the effects of climate change.

“While we don’t know for certain what is ahead as many different factors affect how crops are grown, the research is designed to give the sector some idea of what could occur,” she says.

Dr Zac Hanley, General Manager Science New Cultivar Innovation, Plant & Food Research. Photo / Supplied
Dr Zac Hanley, General Manager Science New Cultivar Innovation, Plant & Food Research. Photo / Supplied

As well as changing to varieties that are more suited to the changing climate, Stanley says growers could adapt the way they grow crops, such as using covers to protect them from increasing risk of rain and hail. They could change the crops they grow (for example growing avocados or apples instead of grapes) or consider expanding into different regions.

Dr Zac Hanley, General Manager Science New Cultivar Innovation, says that the changing climate might also create new opportunities for New Zealand’s horticulture sector.

“We’re bringing new crops into New Zealand, testing things that might be able to cope with future conditions. For example, New Zealand might be able to successfully grow sub-tropical plants like dragon fruit as our climate changes, and that could be a potential new industry for growers in these warmer regions.”

New Zealand-Viet Nam dragon fruit breeding programme. Photo / Supplied
New Zealand-Viet Nam dragon fruit breeding programme. Photo / Supplied

A joint New Zealand-Viet Nam dragon fruit breeding programme has resulted in the development of the first varieties of dragon fruit that could form the basis of a New Zealand sector.

Supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade, the New Premium Fruit Variety Development project has bred three new varieties of dragon fruit which will be commercialised globally by VentureFruit, a T&G Company. Initial testing and evaluation is underway to determine how these new varieties could be commercially grown in Northland.

Plant & Food Research is also looking at the viability of commercial production of other non-traditional crops, such as peanuts in Northland and almonds in the Hawke’s Bay, that may do well in New Zealand’s future climate.

Dr Samantha Baldwin, a Science Group Leader at Plant & Food Research. Photo / Supplied
Dr Samantha Baldwin, a Science Group Leader at Plant & Food Research. Photo / Supplied

Growing indoors, away from the weather, is also an option. Dr Samantha Baldwin, a Science Group Leader at Plant & Food Research, says their research is attempting to make sure New Zealand can deliver food than can be grown long into the future, despite the climate issues being experienced.

She says indoor growing could help food security “because we can basically recreate the entire environment within a controlled area so we can take out the risk not only of erratic weather but also seasonal weather. We can create all seasons in one day if we really want.”

Stanley says that climate change will potentially have major impacts on New Zealand and growers are already thinking about how they will respond.

“The horticulture sector needs to weigh the costs of adaptations or mitigations to climate change against the economic impact of doing nothing,” she says. “It is great to see industry bodies starting to think about what these changes might mean and to plan accordingly.”

For more information: www.plantandfood.co.nz

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Red or white wine: which is better for health?

Red or white wine: which is better for health?
Wine is a popular alcoholic beverage millions of people worldwide enjoy. It is made from fermented grapes and comes in two main varieties: red and white. While both types of wine have their own unique flavours and characteristics, many people wonder which is best for their health. In our gallery, we unveil some possible benefits of red or white wine. Nevertheless, it is still an alcoholic beverage, so one should be careful and limit consumption.
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The healthiest choice?
Red wine is often touted as the healthier choice of the two due to its high levels of antioxidants and polyphenols.
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Red wine: antioxidants and polyphenols
These compounds are believed to have a number of health benefits, including reducing inflammation, improving heart health, and even reducing the risk of some cancers.
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Resveratrol
Both white wine and red wine contain resveratrol, a compound that has been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. These properties can help reduce inflammation in the body and protect against damage caused by free radicals, both of which can contribute to the development of heart disease.
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White wine: lower levels of LDL cholesterol
In addition, moderate consumption of white wine has been linked to lower levels of LDL cholesterol, which is often referred to as “bad” cholesterol. This further reduces the risk of heart disease and other cardiovascular problems. ©freepik
Red wine: higher in calories
However, it is important to note that red wine is also higher in calories and alcohol content than white wine, so it should be consumed in moderation.
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Red wine: possible adverse reactions to tannins
In addition, some people may experience adverse reactions to the tannins in red wine, such as headaches or digestive problems.
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Red wine or white wine?
The truth is that both red and white wine have their health benefits and drawbacks, and the choice ultimately comes down to personal preference.
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Every Major Type Of Red Wine You Would Ever Need To Know

By Samantha Maxwell & Hayley Hamilton Cogill Tasting Table | Aug 8, 2022 & others

If you’re a beginner in the world of red wine, walking down a wine aisle at a local wine shop or even your grocery store can be intimidating. Sure, you know that Merlot and Malbec are both red, but your knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that. If that’s the case for you, don’t worry. We’re here to shed some light on the red wine section. The truth is, the vast majority of red wines come down to a handful of grapes, so if you know about those grapes, then you’ll have a much clearer picture of the wine landscape. That can help you choose the perfect red for that steak dinner or select a bottle for your friend’s housewarming party.

We’re going to cover 10 common types of red wine you’ll find on shelves. Of course, there are countless other varieties out there, but these are the types you’re most likely to see regularly. Get acquainted with these varieties first, then make your way to your local wine shop and try them out for yourself. After all, the best way to determine what kind of wine you prefer is by sipping it yourself. Ready to get started? Here’s every major type of red wine you’d ever need to know.

1. Merlot

If you’re looking for an easy, approachable red wine to start sipping, you certainly can’t go wrong with a Merlot. According to Wine Enthusiast, it’s one of the most popular red wines in the world, and it comes in at number two in red wine popularity in the United States (right behind Cabernet Sauvignon). It’s a versatile grape that can be transformed into fruity or oaky wines alike, serving a variety of taste palettes.

When you get a good Merlot, you’re going to experience a well-balanced wine with moderate tannins, moderate acidity, and relatively high alcohol content. Though individual bottles may vary significantly, you can expect a medium or full-bodied wine. It’s common for tasters to pick up notes of cherry, berries, or plums, or you might get a taste of chocolate or vanilla if you’re drinking an oakier variety (via Wine Folly).

While a wine featuring only Merlot grapes is common on its own, these grapes also commonly find their way into Bordeaux blends. One thing’s for sure: If you bring a Merlot to a dinner party, no one is going to complain. We think this is a great entry point for all those just beginning to get into wine.

2. Zinfandel

Let’s clear one thing up right away: Zinfandel is not the same thing as white Zinfandel. The latter is a sweet or off-dry rosé that many wine drinkers dislike. Of course, if you like it, you should enjoy it, but you definitely shouldn’t confuse it with Zinfandel, which is a red wine with moderate tannins and high alcohol levels, per Wine Folly. This results in a big-bodied wine that pairs well with various Arabic and Mediterranean cuisines. However, the wine itself is originally from Croatia, which has a thriving wine industry. Fun fact: Per Wine Folly, Zinfandel is the only grape varietal in the world that has an annual festival called the ZAP Wine Festival.

While white Zinfandel might be more common on grocery store wine shelves than red Zinfandel, you can usually find the latter without too many issues. This grape is also often found in California red blends (via VinePair). If you’re looking for a bold, robust red that will pair deliciously with all of your favorite foods like grilled meats and mezze, you may find just what you’re searching for in a Zinfandel.

3. Cabernet Sauvignon

Moderately bold, full-bodied, and perfect for pairing with food, it’s hard not to love a good Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an extremely popular type of wine. In fact, it’s the most popular in the world. Like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is a great variety for beginner red-drinkers, as it’s both easy to obtain and has a widely appreciated taste. You may notice notes of black cherry or black currant if you’re enjoying a fruitier Cab, while an oakier variety may evoke notes of graphite or cedar, per Wine Folly. Cabernet Sauvignon is produced worldwide, from France, Italy, and Spain to South Africa, Argentina, and even China.

One of the reasons Cabernet Sauvignons are so popular is because they age really well. Tannins and chemical compounds referred to as phenolics ensure that Cabs taste amazing even after they’ve been in a cellar for decades (via The California Wine Club). The tannins in this wine are more pronounced in younger bottles, but older vintages tend to be more mellow, thus pairing with a wider variety of foods. If you’re looking for the perfect entryway into the world of red wine, grab yourself a Cabernet Sauvignon the next time you’re out.

4. Nebbiolo

According to Wine-Searcher, while Nebbiolo grapes are produced in many parts of the world, they’re overwhelmingly grown in the Piedmont region of Italy. It has high-quality wines that are known for their intense tannin and acidity. Because of these qualities, they pair well with cheese and other fatty, creamy dishes, as the acidity helps cut through those intense flavors (via “Wine Folly: Magnum Edition”). Taste for notes of cherry, leather, rose, and star anise.

You may find cheaper Nebbiolo varieties on the market, but you should expect to pay around $30 for a good bottle. Due to this price point and its intense, bold flavor, Nebbiolo is generally not a wine that new drinkers start with, but it’s certainly worth a try if you’re looking for something new and interesting. There’s a chance that you won’t be able to find it in your grocery store wine aisle, but most well-stocked wine stores, especially those with robust Italian sections, should carry a wide selection of Nebbiolo. This wine can be consumed young, but it typically ages well rather quickly.

5. Syrah (Shiraz)

This one causes quite a bit of confusion for some new wine drinkers because it technically has two names. According to Wine Folly, the grape originated in France’s Rhone Valley, a legendary wine-producing area. However, since then, it has made its way to Australia, and it’s now the most-planted grape in the country. In Australia, they don’t refer to it as Syrah like they do in Europe. Instead, it’s called Shiraz. If you see different wine bottles with these different names, you’ll know that they’re the same grape, and it gives you an idea about where that particular bottle was produced.

This full-bodied red wine has a moderately high alcohol level, medium-high tannins, and tends to be on the drier side (though not intensely so). It’s excellent when paired with dark meats and intense spices, as those flavors tend to bring out its fun, fruity side. Notes of blueberry and plum are standard, as are tobacco and milk chocolate aromas.

If you’re already a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and want to branch out to try something new, Syrah is an excellent option. These wines share many of the same characteristics, but Syrah is a slightly less common find in the U.S.

6. Malbec

Are you looking for a way to get into South American wines? Then do we have a treat for you: it’s called Malbec! Malbec is grown everywhere from South Africa to New Zealand, but most of its production comes from Argentina, per Wine Folly. VinePair says that it’s been a popular blending grape in France for over 100 years, but Malbec has grown as a wine in its own right over the past few decades. And the stuff from Argentina is generally regarded as some of the best.

If you like juicy, fruity wines, Malbec is going to be perfect for you. Don’t assume that juiciness means it will be too sweet, though. Most Malbec is quite dry. We love that this type of wine is affordable so that everyone can enjoy it. If you’re looking for a good bottle of Malbec, you can expect to spend around $15. You should be able to find Malbec at most shops that sell wine.

While many red wines tend to have a longer finish (meaning the flavor stays with you for a while after you take a sip), the finish on Malbec is relatively short. This means it’s great for pairing with red meats that tend toward the leaner side.

7. Pinot Noir

Burgundy is one of the most legendary wine regions globally, and Pinot Noir is right at home there, according to Decanter. However, it’s also grown in other parts of the world, from Chile to Switzerland, so you shouldn’t worry about tracking down a Burgundy if you can’t find it at first. This light-bodied red is great for those who generally drink white wine but want to branch out and try something new. It’s not very sweet, but the acidity is intense, making it ideal for pairing with foods that you normally wouldn’t think of eating with a glass of red wine (via “Wine Folly: Magnum Edition”). Chicken, for instance, is an excellent pairing with Pinot Noir.

Unfortunately, Pinot Noir can be more expensive than other bottles, which means you’ll want to spend around $30 for a bottle of the good stuff. Pinot Noir is an incredibly finicky varietal for grape growers to work with, per Wine Enthusiast, since it is susceptible to disease and root rot. But even though it is hard to grow, Pinot Noir is a fave for many drinkers, and if you haven’t tried it yet, it’s worth a sip.

8. Cabernet Franc

Never seen a Cabernet Franc in the flesh before? You’re not alone. It’s not especially common to see this wine on its own because it is most often used for blending with other varietals into Bordeaux red wines. However, it is sometimes produced as a single varietal, according to MasterClass. When you drink this wine, expect a medium-bodied red with plenty of acidity that makes it sippable and perfect to pair with tomato-based dishes. You might pick up on notes of strawberry or raspberry as well as bell pepper and chili pepper.

If you’re looking for intense tannins, then Cabernet Franc is probably not for you. While it can often be confused with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon grapes have a thicker skin than Franc ones, which gives Sauvignon a heavier and more intense flavor. However, if you’re not super into red wines generally, this wine is a great place to start. It’s a fun option to serve at a party if you want to introduce your guests to something a little different than what they might be used to drinking.

9. Sangiovese

According to Wine Folly, Italy, Tuscany grows most of the world’s Sangiovese, a dry, acidic, savory red wine. Because it’s so acidic, it can pair well with spicy and other acidic dishes, making it one of our favorites for a dinner party. It pairs excellently with tomatoes and potent herbs. It can be a great option for vegetarian cooking — as long as the food you’re eating has plenty of plant-derived fats. However, Sangiovese generally isn’t amazing for pairing with sweet dishes, so if you’re looking for a dessert-adjacent drink, it’s usually not the way to go.

Wine Folly refers to Sangiovese as a “chameleon,” meaning that different wines using this varietal will taste different. The variation is huge, so it pays to learn about the specific region you’re getting your Sangiovese from if you’re curious about the details. This fun, interesting wine is a great option for food lovers and those who want to branch out to slightly less recognized varietals that are still widely available.

 

10. Grenache

Grenache, also known as Garnacha in Spain, is a common grape used in wines throughout the world. VinePair describes the flavor as berry-forward with notes of strawberries and white pepper along with a hint of Fruit Roll=Ups. Umm … sign us up! This varietal was originally cultivated in Spain, and it’s sold both as a single varietal as well as appearing in blended bottles. You may want to consider pairing it with autumnal dishes like roasted veggies, lamb, or even prime rib. However, The Wine Cellar Insider shares that it’s extremely versatile, so don’t be afraid to try some creative pairings if that’s what you’re into.

While Grenache can be quite expensive, you won’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy this wine to its fullest. A $15 to $20 bottle can give you a good idea of what this grape offers and initiate you into a whole new world of red wine. Give it a try the next time you cook a special dinner.

 

11. Lambrusco

From Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco is a regional designation and a mix of various grapes that grow wildly and flourish quickly (via Wine Traveler). Yes, it can be confusing. Don’t fret, though. You’ll love this type if you like juicy, lively wine with an effervescence. With origins potentially dating back to 160 BC, Wine Folly says Lambrusco tends to be low-alcohol and easy-drinking.

The different varieties range from pale-pink to inky purple, the site says, and are produced either dry or semi-sweet. The wines also tend to have aromas of wildflower, black cherry, pomegranate, and wild herbs. Flavors can be fruit-forward like tart cranberry and sour cherry, or savory with black tea, spice, and olive. Best served chilled, this type of sparkling wine always has a bubbly element as a semi-sparkling frizzante or fully-carbonated spumante.

Regional classifications can help you determine which you’ll most enjoy. Lambrusco di Modena is an uncomplicated and approachable introductory style. Lambrusco di Grasparossa is dark, dry, and structured with blue-and-black fruit flavors, bold tannins, and mouth-watering astringency. If you’re a fan of semi-sweet, fruity, and creamy wines, Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco Reggiano should be on your list.

Lambrusco is known for high acidity that pairs with rich, fatty foods, particularly from the Emilia-Romagna province — home of balsamic vinegar of Modena, mortadella, and Parmesan-Reggiano cheese. Pair Lambrusco with parmesan risotto or a charcuterie board with Prosciutto di Parma.

12. Barbera

Slo Wine shares that over 5000 varieties of wine grapes are included in the Italian National Registry! Of which, they add about 350 are actively growing native varieties. Within Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region, Barolo might be best known for its production of powerful, tannic (and often expensive) wine from nebbiolo grapes.

But, it isn’t the only variety grown in this region notable for white truffles, chestnuts, and hazelnuts. The barbera wine grape thrives on low slopes and valleys below the fog line (as in, the less-than-prime locations) throughout the Piedmont province, notes Wine Folly.

Barbera wines are fleshy and food-friendly with a light-to-medium body. With its rich purple color, this wine can confuse your palate. You may expect the wine to be dense and tannic. Instead, barbera is aromatic and fresh with high acidity. The wine site shares the wine’s flavors include juicy wild strawberry, tart cherry, and pencil lead. A young, fresh style of wine also has a structure, texture, and balance that is ideally enjoyed the first few years after release.

Some of the best come from vineyards around Asti and Alba, where the wines are bright and fresh with an easy approachability. Outside of Italy, barbera is grown in California, Australia, and Argentina, typically delivering darker fruit notes with higher alcohol from the warmer growing conditions.

Barbera wine is usually quite affordable, making it the perfect Tuesday night wine for pairing with regional dishes like truffle-topped chestnut agnolotti.

13. Tempranillo

Tempranillo is a tale of mediums: Medium to full-bodied, medium to low acidity, medium to high tannin, medium alcohol, and a lot of flavor. Though various red wine varieties originate in Spain, tempranillo is the country’s signature grape. Foods and Wines of Spain says tempranillo grapes cover 20% of Spain’s total vineyard area. The grape’s native region, Rioja, enjoys high elevations with warm days and cool nights, resulting in balanced, fresh wines with notes of red fruit, soft herb, and leather. In central Spain’s Ribera del Duero and Toro regions, Wine-Searcher finds the wines are more rugged, tannic, and high in alcohol due to the extreme temperatures.

Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano, meaning early, because it ripens quickly, producing thick-skinned grapes on highly productive vines. The variety goes by different names, including tinto fino, cencibel, and tinta de toro, with each showing different characteristics and styles. The best tempranillo wines are from areas preserving the fruit’s natural acidity.

Tempranillo has an affinity for American oak aging, embracing the oak’s vanilla coconut flavors in the wine. As the wine ages, tertiary qualities emerge like dried cherry, fig, and woody herbs. By law, a Rioja Reserva wine must age at least three years, of which one year must be in barrel and six months in bottle (via Rioja Wine). Rioja delivers incredible quality for the price point. Delicious Rioja Reserva wines are available for under $20 from producers like CVNE, Beronia, and LAN.

14. Carménère

As Spain has tempranillo and Argentina has malbec, the signature red wine of Chile is carménère. Though a native Bordeaux variety, its success shines brightest in South America. After phylloxera devastated the vine in France, carménère was considered extinct. However, before the pest spread throughout Europe, vintners took cuttings of the carménère vines to Chile says Wine Enthusiast.

Vinepair adds Chilean vintners had misunderstood what variety they were growing for decades. They thought the carménère was merlot, and treated it as such in the vineyard, harvesting the fruit side by side with early-ripening grape. In the 1990s scientists confirmed they were growing a late-ripening carménère. In 1998, the Chilean Department of Agriculture designated carménère as a distinct variety, skyrocketing production. The sun-loving variety now thrives throughout Chile’s Central Valley.

Carménère wines made from unripe grapes display bitter green pepper, paprika, and Tabasco. These qualities are similar to the carménère parent grape, Cabernet Franc. The wines have moderate tannin, medium to full body, rich concentration, and flavors of black plum, fig, cherry, and woody herb. Though most carménère grapes are grown in Chile, vintners in Italy and New Zealand dabble with small productions, though they too likely began growing the grape confusing it with something else.

15. Tannat

Tannat is believed to originate from the Basque country on the border of France and Spain. Today, it is most widely planted in France’s Madiran region. Wine Enthusiast says tannat’s opaque, purplish-black wine grapes are filled with tannin and thrive in arid, desert-like conditions, like the dry and dusty vineyards of California’s Paso Robles.

Tannat is the signature variety of wine grape for Uruguay, where vintners first planted tannat vines in the 1870s. However, Uruguayan tannat is unlike other versions worldwide, in part, because cuttings came from vines from the Basque country arrived before the phylloxera louse wiped out much of Europe’s vineyards throughout the 1800s (via Vinepair). Chile’s old vine tannat produces wines that have bold tannin with racy acidity, dense concentration and structure, and a rustic yet finessed Old World style.

In addition to its powerful flavor profile, tannat may be one of the healthiest red wines available. The Grape Collective adds tannat has high levels of antioxidants, including polyphenols, procyanidins, flavenoids, and resveratrol, thanks to the number of seeds grown within tannat grapes; most grapes have two or three seeds, but tannat has five. If you haven’t tried tannat and want to start with a good one, we love Bodega Garzon — and we’re not the only ones. Bodega Garzon’s Reserva Tannat has landed on Wine Enthusiast’s top 100 wines of the year multiple times.

16. Mourvèdre

Deep and intense, mourvèdre is a robust, sun-loving grape that creates concentrated, full-bodied wines. The variety originates from eastern Spain, where it is known as monastrell. Cellar Tours finds that Phoenicians are believed to have introduced the grape to Spain around 500 BC before the Romans brought it to France, where it took on its internationally recognized name, mourvèdre. A challenging variety to work with, the late-ripening grape requires a long-growing cycle to fully mature, which pushes alcohol levels to extremes, often exceeding 16%, says Cellar Tours. It becomes a continuous juggling act in the vineyard as picking mourvèdre wine grapes early, before the fruit is ripe, creates intensely tannic wines with astringency.

Blending mourvèdre with other varieties, like grenache and syrah, helps create wines with balance and appealing flavors, such as the bold wines of France’s Bandol. Wine Folly shares that Bandol wines are full-bodied and tannic, with peppery, meaty flavors. Wile the wine grape is integral to red blends, in Spain, mourvèdre, or monastrell, is still showcased on its own.

Mourvèdre benefits from aging to soften tannins, the wine site suggests up to ten years for the Bandol selections. Open and decant mourvèdre wine an hour or so before dinner to introduce oxygen into the wine, helping the flavors open. The meaty and robust wines pair well with hearty dishes like boneless short ribs, roasted leg of lamb, or venison.

17. Portuguese Field Blend

Deep red grapes creates sweet, fortified port wines, and dry, concentrated red table wines.
Deep red grapes creates sweet, fortified port wines, and dry, concentrated red table wines.

If you stroll through the slate-filled, steeply terraced vineyards along the Douro River in Portugal, you will see a patchwork of vines known as the Portuguese field blend. The Best Portugal explains this melange of deep red grapes creates sweet, fortified port wines, as well as dry, concentrated Portuguese red table wines. The site says the combination varies, but includes varieties like tinto roriz (the Portuguese tempranillo), touriga nacional, alicante bouchet, touriga franca, and legally upwards of 90 more. All of these are warm-weather varieties that thrive in hot, arid temperatures.

Wine-Searcher reports the effects of global warming in wine-producing regions means thick-skinned, high-tannin, and warm weather varieties that might have been obscure in the past could become the standard vines in the future. The site says varieties commonly included in the Portuguese field blend are heat resistant and adapt well to little rainfall and extreme daytime temperatures.

Although Portugal’s field blend is often best associated with fortified port wines, the blends meld harmoniously as dry Portuguese table wines. Wine Enthusiast shares that in the past these wines left much to be desired; however, when Portugal joined the European Union in 1986, investment from the EU brought about essential improvements and modern technology to vineyards and wineries — white Vinho Verde has famously benefited from a modern update. Leading Portuguese winemakers, like Symington and Esporao, are crafting high-quality, affordable table wines that are powerful and have an easy-drinking, balanced style.

18. Red Meritage

Blend of words: "merit" to indicate quality and "heritage," referring to the historic art of blending.
Blend of words: “merit” to indicate quality and “heritage,” referring to the historic art of blending.

Every Bordeaux wine is a blend of select varieties — including cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot — that must come from the celebrated Bordeaux region in France. So, how could every other international winemaker blending these varieties distinguish their wine as a premium product and differentiate itself from various other Bordeaux-style red table blends?

Enter the Meritage Alliance: The Alliance began in the United States in 1988, known then as the Meritage Association, when producers sought a way to discern their New World wine blends. The name is a blend of words: “merit” to indicate quality and “heritage,” referring to the historic art of blending. With the label, premium quality blends of white and red noble varieties denoted higher prestige and the finest wines of the vintage, particularly the red blends from Napa Valley.

The Meritage Alliance is dominated by New World members mainly from California but includes international makers from Argentina, Mexico, Australia, and Canada. For red wines to be classified as a Meritage, the grape blend must contain only cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot, carmenère, or the relatively obscure varieties of Saint-Macaire and Gros Verdot. Red Meritage wines can also include no more than 90% of any one variety. Enjoy red Meritage wines with dishes that pair well with Bordeaux wines, including braised lamb, pork belly, beef cheeks, or slow-cooked, sous vide ribeye.

19. Gamay

Best served slightly chilled, highlighting the natural fruit notes.
Best served slightly chilled, highlighting the natural fruit notes.

If you have ever tried a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau wine, you have enjoyed gamay grapes. The quickly produced, grape juice-like wine is released on the third Thursday of November and raced from the Beaujolais region to Paris to celebrate the first wines of the season on Beaujolais Nouveau Day. But, gamay wines are so much more than the youthful nouveau selections.

Like pinot noir in weight and body, gamay has light tannin and high acidity, shares Vinepair. Gamay wines are also usually best served slightly chilled, highlighting the natural red fruit notes. Styles range from light and fresh to well-rounded and age-worthy. One thing is sure, all gamays are approachable, easy to drink, and delicious.

The most famous gamay wines come from Beaujolais, a 34-mile-long area in central France south of Burgundy that encompasses 12 regional designations. Vinepair says wines labeled as Beaujolais are most common, but the 10 cru Beaujolais, like Morgon, Fleurie, and Brouilly, are the most high-quality wines. If you are a fan of light-bodied wines, Wine Folly says wines from Fleurie showcase floral aromas with a delicate softness. If you prefer something heartier, the site adds the Morgon wines are similar in taste to pinot noir from Burgundy thanks to notes of dark cherry, mushroom, and truffle, especially when allowed to age.

Due to gamay’s overall low alcohol, juicy fruit, and fresh acidity, the wine is incredibly food-friendly: Pair with salmon tacos, crispy roast duck, and roasted turkey and cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving.

20. Mencia

Spain's answer to Pinot Noir
Spain’s answer to Pinot Noir

Mencía is Spain’s answer to Pinot Noir. The thick-skinned up-and-coming mencía grape produces aromatic, complex wines filled with notes of wildflowers melding with dried leaves or truffles. These intoxicating aromas lead to flavors of wild strawberry and pomegranate, then finishing with spicy, freshly cracked pepper. Cellar Tours says mencía, pronounced “men-thee-ah,” is a native variety to northwest Spain, specifically Bierzo in Castilla y Leon and neighboring Galicia. The delicate variety presents various challenges in the vineyard because mencía is sensitive to disease, can quickly lose acidity, and delivers high-alcohol levels, adds Cellar Tours. However, when mencía is crafted with care, the expressive wines are some of the most compelling, delicious selections from Spain today.

A region filled with mountains and valleys, Wine Tourism Mag says Bierzo benefits from its location nestled between Galicia’s rainy, humid, Atlantic-influenced climate, and Castilla y Leon’s sunshine-filled, continental climate. Wine Enthusiast adds that Bierzo enjoys a balanced growing season thanks to its higher, cooler elevation compared to the rest of the province, resulting in wines showcasing minerality that’s attributed to the region’s slate and schist deposits — a defining element of these expressive wines.

We love the wine with grilled pork belly or roasted mushroom burgers. Though the popularity of the wines has grown in recent years, mencía remains affordable, with options from Losada, Raul Perez, and Avancia often costing less than $20 — making it a good option for a red wine spritzer.

21. Cinsault

Cinsault should hold a permanent position in your wine rack if you are a fan of refreshing, balanced wines with ripe red-fruit flavors. Cinsault, also known as cinsaut or hermitage in South Africa, is a heat-loving red grape from southern France. It is a vigorous vine, producing a lot of fruit each year thanks to its resistance to drought and love of hot, dry growing conditions. But, just because the vine delivers like the “Giving Tree” doesn’t mean the fruit quality is lacking: Cinsault produces clean, crunchy, bright rosé wine and luscious, dry red wines.

Cards of Wine notes cinsault is often used as a blending partner with Rhone varieties in the wines from France’s Rhone Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon. It is also a key part of South Africa’s regional favorite, pinotage, which is blended with pinot noir, the site adds. But, cinsault can easily shine as a single variety wine thanks to its wild red berry and stone fruit flavors. Henry Jeffreys shares in Club Oenologique that today young winemakers are producing high-quality, single-variety South African cinsault wines from old bush vines. The light-bodied wines are low alcohol, refreshing, and affordable, he adds.

Cinsault Rhone blends are perfect pairing partners for hearty, fatty dishes like Irish stew. Cinsault rosé wines are excellent with seafood and shellfish, grilled vegetables, and summer salads. Pop a bottle of single-varietal cinsault wine in the fridge for 15 minutes before opening and sip solo on a lazy summer afternoon.

22. Chambourcin

Mony Knight. Okahu Wines, Northland. One of the few NZ wineries selling Chambourcin.
Mony Knight. Okahu Wines, Northland. One of the few NZ wineries selling Chambourcin.

Chambourcin is a species of grapevines belonging to the Vitis genus in the flowering plant family Vitaceae. It is a French-American interspecific hybrid grape variety used for making wine. Its parentage is uncertain. The hybrid was produced by Joannes Seyve who often used Seibel hybrids produced in the 1860s. The grape has only been available since 1963; it has a good resistance to fungal disease, and is one of the parents of the new disease resistant variety, Regent, which is increasing in popularity among German grape growers.

The grape produces a deep-colored and aromatic wine. It can be made into a dry style or one with a moderate residual sugar level. Chambourcin is a teinturier a grape whose juice is pink or red rather than clear like most red vitis vinifera cultivars.

The red juice fermented over the red skins can produce a very strongly flavoured wine. Most red wines are served at cellar temperature (55-58 degrees F.) to bring out the flavour but some Chambourcin wines have such a strong flavour that it is recommended that they be served chilled.

Chambourcin has been planted widely in the mid-Atlantic region of North America, particularly in such states as New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania. It is also grown in Harrow and Ruthven, Ontario, and in Kelowna, B.C., Canada; several counties in Virginia; Frederick, Washington, Harford, Prince George’s County, Maryland, Calvert County, Maryland, and St. Mary’s County, Maryland; Kent County, Delaware; Monroe County, Indiana; Daviess County, Kentucky; in the Ohio River Valley AVA Ohio; Greenbrier, Calhoun, Roane, and Mineral counties in West Virginia; Allegan County, Michigan; the Shawnee Hills AVA of southern Illinois; the Yadkin Valley and Haw River Valley of North Carolina; Western Tennessee in the Mississippi Delta AVA[3][circular reference]; Missouri; south-central Kansas; Norman Oklahoma; New Zealand’s Northland Region;[4] the Hunter Valley Region of New South Wales and other warm, humid regions in Australia; also in France and Portugal.

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Wine Fermentation, Explained: How the Process Affects the Flavor and Texture of Your Vino

Understanding these techniques will help lead you to the wine you love.

By Mike Desimone & Jeff Jenssen, RR | 9 Nov, 2022

Bodegas Valduero

Humans have made wine for about 7,000 years, and experts agree that until relatively recently, it may not have tasted perfect. For millennia wine has been the ultimate expression of agriculture. Still, once grapes are transported from the vineyard to the winery, it is up to the winemaker to apply their hand to create the best beverage possible. While cold fermentation is a relatively new technique introduced in the 1950s, many other practices are as old as winemaking. Many terms are casually tossed around by those in the know, so here is a quick explanation of some of the more common winemaking terms you may come across and how wine is fermented will affect the final product.

Cold Fermentation

Of course, wine is made by fermentation: Yeast converts grape sugar to alcohol, and the result is this glorious liquid we love. One of the byproducts of fermentation is heat, which, left unchecked, could cause temperatures to rise to the point that yeast dies and fermentation stops. Fermentation at higher temperatures can also create a wine with lighter aromatics, unpleasant flavours, and a lack of elegance or finesse. A colder, slower fermentation preserves aromatics, fruit flavours and colour. External cooling jackets or pipes filled with cold running water maintain temperatures within the tank, allowing the winemaker to control the fermentation speed.

Barrel Fermentation

Some wines, like the Malbec in Argentina, are fermented in concrete eggs.
David Silverman/Getty Images

Wine may be fermented in various containers, including stainless steel tanks, concrete vats or “eggs,” fibreglass tanks, terra cotta amphorae, or wooden barrels or vats. While stainless steel, concrete and fibreglass are considered neutral and do not impart flavour or texture to the contents within, fermenting in a barrel adds flavour to the wood and a buttery or creamy texture. This method leads to a richer mouthfeel and may bring flavours of vanilla, baking spice, coconut or coffee. It can be used for white wines like Chardonnay or Verdejo and red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo or Tempranillo.

Yolanda García Viadero, proprietor and winemaker at Bodegas Valduero in  Ribera del Duero, Spain, began using this technique 12 years ago with external rollers that rotate horizontal barrels during fermentation. She told Robb Report, “For fermentation, wood is interesting. The structure is improved, and all the grape characteristics are reinforced and amplified. But at the same time, the texture and flavour are softer.”

Malolactic Fermentation

Sometimes shortened to “malo” by winemakers, malolactic fermentation converts tart malic acid to more creamy or buttery lactic acid. This is easy to remember because “lactic” pertains to milk; a class of bacteria known as lactobacillus are responsible for the conversion. Technically it is not truly fermentation because yeast isn’t involved. It lowers acidity and raises pH, resulting in rounder, smoother or fuller wines. It can occur spontaneously during primary fermentation or after the first fermentation. Many red wines and some white wines, such as Chardonnay, Viognier or Soave, undergo malolactic conversion, which adds stability to wines but may decrease the sense of freshness.

At Bodegas José Pariente in Rueda, Spain, winemaker Martina Prieto Pariente uses malo in her Finca Las Comas wine, a single-vineyard, small batch Verdejo. She explained to Robb Report, “This vineyard tends to maintain a high acidity and therefore also a somewhat higher than normal malic acid content. The partial malolactic conversion in this wine allows us to soften the acidity and provide greater aromatic complexity due to the light notes of butter and cream, respecting the primary aromas as it is partial and not complete. This translates into a wine with more volume, silky texture and depth.”

On the Lees

Champagne has to spend at least a year on the lees, but this bottle spent nearly four decades.

Although the process sounds highly unattractive, ageing on the lees heightens many of the pleasant characteristics of wine’s aroma, flavour and texture. Admittedly, this step isn’t fermentation itself but using the byproduct of fermentation to influence the final product. Called sur lie in French and Sobre lias in Spanish, this is the practice of allowing the wine to remain in contact with dead or spent yeast cells. As fermentation occurs, sediment falls to the bottom of the tank or barrel. The first to sink is gross lees, consisting of dead yeast, grape skins and yeast cells—fine lees, which have a sleeker texture and settle to the bottom throughout the fermentation. Lees can be filtered out, but winemakers may also leave them in to provide more complexity to the finished wine.

This method is always used for Champagne; non-vintage Champagne must spend at least 12 months on the lees, while vintage Champagne must remain in contact with the lees for a minimum of three years. This can add aromas and flavours of almonds, hazelnuts, baking bread, brioche and toast—many other wines, whether white, red or rosé, are also aged in this way.

“The process of ageing Chardonnay on the lees adds complexity, both in the secondary aromas and flavours that it adds to the wines and what it delivers in texture,” Graham Weerts, winemaker for South Africa’s Capensis told Robb Report, “Chardonnay can be subtle in its primary fruit characters, but it’s one of the few white varieties that gains complexity through its evolution over time. The intent for Capensis has always been to produce wines that rival the best white wines in the world in terms of quality and longevity, and lees ageing is a fundamental part of the approach.”

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A Panel discussion on NZ Rosés

Wednesday 12th October | Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18

Pretty in pink

Rosé wine is an exciting and diverse category. New Zealand Rosé comes in a rainbow of pink hues, from the palest salmon to deep watermelon. Typically, they’re light-bodied, fruit-focused and just off-dry in style. While it’s often associated with Pinot Noir in NZ, this style of wine is no one-trick pony, and there is so much more to discover.

So, join us on Wednesday the 12th Oct, when our panel will take you on a tasting discovery of just what wonderful wines NZ can produce in this style.

Our presentation includes both still and sparkling Rosés, showing delicious aromas and flavours of ripe strawberries, raspberries and crushed cherries, sweet citrus, watermelon, honeydew melon, spices and fresh herbs. And the grapes used in the wines to be tasted will surprise you. They won’t just be Pinot Noir or Merlot dominant.

Here is some more Rosé information that may help in your appreciation of what the tasting may cover.

The specific colour of a given rosé is based on the amount of time that the skins have spent with the juice—though contrary to popular belief, darker-hued rosés are not always sweeter.

Due to their low tannins, high acid, and fruit-forward nature, Rosé—whether still or sparkling—is one of the most versatile, food-friendly wine styles on the planet.

When to Drink Pink? Rosés are perfect for spring and summer, as they are served chilled and can be a refreshing accompaniment to a variety of warm- weather fare. Rosé wines also top the charts for food-friendly versatility, as there’s a Rosé to suit most food types.

Regional styles of Rosé

Rosé styles, hues and myriad varieties are found throughout all of New Zealand’s wine regions, reflecting the fruit freshness and focus for which our wine is renowned.

Hawke’s Bay

Hawke’s Bay is home to a great many of the Merlot and Syrah-based Rosé, with some wines made from a blend of (often Bordeaux) varieties. The moderately-warm climate lends itself to robust, spicy and savoury wines with good depth of flavour.

Marlborough

Pinot Noir is the most common variety used for Marlborough Rosé, with characteristic aromatic intensity, ripe berry fruit and spice, and vibrant, well-balanced palates. There are also some interesting examples using less-common varieties such as Syrah and Montepulciano. Excellent quality Methode Traditionnelle Rosé is made in Marlborough.

Central Otago

The vast majority of Central Otago Rosé is Pinot Noir-based. Packed with bright strawberry, raspberry, ripe cherries and often a touch of spice and fresh herbs, the palate is lively and crisp palates with clean acidity. There are also several very smart examples of Methode Traditionnelle Rosé.

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Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine

Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine
Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine

For many, Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine – is very real. If you’ve been faced with surprise houseguests or the need for a quick, last-minute gift, you know the anxiety of an empty wine rack. The fix? An everyday vino with the sass and substance to stand up to any wine-related emergency.

Novinophobia is something that is joked about in the wine-lover community, and several vendors have picked up on this and created funny wine glasses, pillows and other products featuring novinophobia jokes to sell to this niche community. One can also find YouTube videos, Facebook pages and Instagram memes that joke about novinophobia.

Although this phobia creates a lot of laughs within the wine-drinking community, it is a real mental disorder. Individuals with this disorder panic when their wine glasses become empty or almost empty. They remain in a constant state of anxiety as long as no wine is left to drink.

Join the Cellar Club to get your fix.

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Can’t decide on a wine for the night? Now you can choose with emojis

Amberleigh Jack, Stuff | 31 May 2022

MONIQUE FORD/STUFF Wine emojis to help you choose a bottle.
MONIQUE FORD/STUFF
Wine emojis to help you choose a bottle.

If you feel lost as to what wine to serve at your Moroccan-inspired dinner party this weekend, one website is on a mission to help – using a database of unique, and very cute, specialised emojis.

When lockdown forced Wellington’s Noble Rot Wine Bar to close in March 2020, three wine experts used the downtime to create a database of wine profiles. The ultimate goal was to simplify the wine-buying process for the average consumer.

Two years later, Wine-oji, is a website featuring 221 emoji-like images designed to help anyone pick the perfect bottle of wine, whether they know what wine they enjoy or not.

Noble Rot owners Josh Pointon and Maciej Zimny, with head sommelier Jessica Wood, launched Wine-oji last December. Wood says the response has been “amazing” from consumers and producers.

But what exactly is Wine-oji, and how does a collection of wine-related emojis help someone pick a bottle of wine?

MONIQUE FORD/STUFF Wine-Oji was an idea born out of lockdown.
MONIQUE FORD/STUFF
Wine-Oji was an idea born out of lockdown.

The website is a colourful, busy and interactive library of images used to describe flavour profiles, production methods and ideal food pairings for wines.

The list is pretty extensive. Images are allocated to primary aromas, such as fruits and vegetables, as well as floral notes such as jasmine and honeysuckle or earthy tones of oak and wet stone.

Secondary aromas, which come from the winemaking process, oak ageing, oxidation and bottle ageing include popcorn, butterscotch, oak, berries and fruit and tar and rubber, among others.

Wood says while the library of wine emojis is fun, the interactive “find your perfect match” section is where customers can hone in on exactly what they are after in a wine.

“You can search any winery or flavour,” she says. Users can also simply search for the food they plan to eat and find the perfect pairing.

“If you’re cooking snapper tonight, you can type snapper, and it will bring up all the wines that have any of those Wine-ojis allocated to the profile.”

MONIQUE FORD/STUFF The initial idea began when Wood realised she was fielding questions from customers at Noble Rot about what certain wines taste like.
MONIQUE FORD/STUFF
The initial idea began when Wood realised she was fielding questions from customers at Noble Rot about what certain wines taste like.

She says the site also allows people to open their minds a bit to try new wines.

“[You can find] things you’ll actually like, rather than based on wine that’s discounted heavily at the store, or because you tried it before, or like the label. It’s actually all about your experience of the wine.”

The initial idea began when Wood realised she was fielding questions from customers at Noble Rot about what certain wines taste like, and what wines pair best with certain foods.

And so the idea of creating a database of flavours, profiles and distributor information began to form.

“We … started composing a list of the key aromas and flavours, and structural components of the wine, that we could then build into a bit of a library. That became the new language – the language of Wine-oji,” she says.

The creation of the images was hugely important, Wood says. They brought in a local graphic designer to help create the library. They needed to be well-designed, but they also had to appeal to people who are not wine experts.

MONIQUE FORD/STUFF People need no previous knowledge of wine to use the emoji wine website.
MONIQUE FORD/STUFF
People need no previous knowledge of wine to use the emoji wine website.

“They had to be easily recognisable, quite quickly, by the average consumer.”

“There is a huge problem in that people don’t know what wine they like, or what wine they should buy. There’s never really been an understanding of their flavour profile or their taste preferences.”

“We were thinking, how can we translate to people quickly and instantly what’s in their bottle of wine using images rather than words?” she says.

The resulting database is something Wood insists people need no previous knowledge of wine to use.

“You just need to know if you like something or not,” she says.

Using the interactive section of the site, a search for “lemon” results in 33 bottles of wine. Of those, two are Pinot Gris and 12 are Chardonnay. The selections can be further filtered by wine type or vintage.

For each bottle, the full Wine-oji profile can be viewed. There are eight sections: aroma, flavour, sweetness, acidity, body, oak, finish and food. Each is illustrated with the relevant Wine-ojis.

MONIQUE FORD/STUFF Wine-Oji will give you the nous to have a good nose for wine - no experience required.
MONIQUE FORD/STUFF
Wine-Oji will give you the nous to have a good nose for wine – no experience required.

My 2019 Main Divide Riesling, for instance, had an acidity rating of 4½ lemons out of 5. Its sweetness is only worthy of one lollipop, however, and in terms of the body, my chosen riesling shows 2½ bodybuilders out of a possible 5.

My chosen wine also pairs well with prawn skewers, pad thai, Moroccan couscous and snapper ceviche.

And after two years of creating an extensive database of wine-related imagery, what are Wood’s favourite Wine-ojis?

She has a few, including lily, jasmine and ginger. She is also a fan of the food pairings.

“The rabbit is very cute.”

Purchase your Wine-ojis, now!

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The new rules of wine [Series]

The LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) is an Ontario government enterprise and one of the world’s largest buyers and retailers of beverage alcohol. Through more than 660 retail stores, catalogues, e-commerce, special order services, close to 400 LCBO Convenience Outlets, which provide cost-effective, convenient and socially responsible access for rural consumers, and as a wholesaler to almost 450 Grocery stores, the LCBO offers more than 28,000 products annually, from more than 80 countries to consumers and licensed establishments.

Wines described in the series may not be available in New Zealand. Try to think about an alternative you may drink instead.

The LCBO has a responsibility to the buying public to help ensure the products they sell are safe to drink and authentic.
The LCBO has a responsibility to the buying public to help ensure the products they sell are safe to drink and authentic.

This series is an exciting part of exploring the world of wine that despite some tried-and-truisms, it’s always evolving and changing. Here are some fresh ideas to shake up your sipping this year.

It’s easy to be intimidated by traditional wine rituals and rules instead of following your own intuition and palate to discover what you really enjoy.

Fortunately, today almost anything goes, including many old myths, which are being busted by the modern wine industry. For instance, are you convinced that cork is better than cap? Unless you’re cellaring wine for years, screw-tops and pop-off caps now preserve the product of many coveted wines, including countless Ontario VQAs.

Still, pairing only red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat? Sommeliers aren’t; most will now happily recommend white Burgundy or creamy Chardonnay with steak, or a Pinot Noir with poultry (or rosé with everything).

If you’re drinking red wines at room temperature, the current consensus is that many of them are better served cool. Try putting your reds in the fridge for 30 minutes and, correspondingly, taking your whites out half an hour before serving to take off the big chill. There’s no right or wrong way to enjoy wine, but here are 10 new ideas to help you discover what’s new, exciting and worth trying.

1. Rethinking ABV

Popular “fruit-bomb” big red wines can be as high as 15% alcohol by volume (ABV). A new crop of complex, flavourful reds with slightly less alcohol is emerging, among them South American wines like Trivento Fair Trade Malbec, with tons of black fruit and a touch of spice, at just 12.5%. Jackson-Triggs Merlot has full-bodied fruit and rings in at 12%. Though many white wines (including the cool-climate whites Ontario is known for) are naturally a touch lighter in alcohol, look for off-dry German Rieslings, Sauvignon Blancs such as 11.5% Remy Pannier Sauvignon Blanc IGP Val de Loire, calorie-reduced whites like Skinnygrape Chardonnay with just 7.5% ABV, or Italian bubblies such as Moscatos (typically under 10%) or 6.5% Viticolitori Acquesi Brachetto D’Acqui Sparkling.

2. Bring on the funk

Savvy wine drinkers know that “noble rot” (describing the botrytis fungus that can destroy crops or produce coveted dessert wines) or “barnyard” (animal or vegetal wine aromas, courtesy of the Brettanomyces yeast that can be a virtue or a fault) can actually be desirable qualities. Likewise, unfiltered or slightly oxidized wines — once worthy of being returned — today might be just what the winemaker intended. Though so-called low-intervention or natural wines can be wildly unpredictable from year to year or batch to batch, these authentic and rustic-tasting wines are growing in popularity. Experiment with reliably consistent Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonterra Chardonnay from their organic California winery. The Mendocino County vineyard eschews pesticides for natural solutions, from using birds and sheep to control weeds and insects to planting diverse cover crops like crimson clover and lavender to attract bees and nourish the soil. Can you taste any traces of that care in the bottle?

3. The return of sweet

Once upon a time, sweet wine was taboo; today, sweetness can be a treasured quality in wines that have acidity, tannins or other balancing qualities. The ticket to finding them on LCBO.com or shelf labels: look for “MS” (medium-sweet) or “M” (medium) wines and a style descriptor that includes “fruity.” Try trendy wine from the ancient region of Georgia: United Stars Alazanis Valley Off-Dry from the Kakheti region is a red made with acidic Saperavi grapes. Tropical-smelling, just-tart-enough Ironstone Obsession Symphony California makes a mouth-watering break from minerally and dry whites.

4. Sustainability

From fewer chemicals and less water-intensive growing to environment-friendly packaging (the LCBO’s lighter-glass “Canada bottle” is a global game-changer), wine is going smaller-footprint. Get on board with Organic Chardonnay from carbon-neutral delivery Cono Sur or Ciao Sangiovese Organic in a light, recyclable Tetra Pak. Ontario’s Tawse and Southbrook make naturally grown organic and biodynamic wines — and, like most Ontario VQA wineries, are committed to the Sustainable Winemaking Ontario program.

5. Rosé with everything

It’s not just for summer sipping anymore. Rosé’s wide range of drier styles has been discovered by wine lovers, and its versatility with every course is beloved by diners. Since colour or even the country of origin doesn’t always dictate the taste, read the label for clues about grape varietal. Grenache/Garnacha rosé will be off-dry, and great with big Mexican, Indian or Thai flavours. Pinot Noir grapes give an elegant acidic balance to dry rosés that complement many poultry and fish dishes. Sangiovese or Syrah rosés have spice that bounces well off fatty and creamy dishes, from meats to pasta. Many rosés are blends of a few grapes — experiment to find your favourites.

6. Reading the label

A Ageing and barrel maturation information.  B Serving and food-pairing suggestions.  C Indication of the region or terroir where the wine was made.  D Notes on the winery’s philosophy or practices.  E Importer or distributor, which might share your taste in other wines.  F Detailed information about the grape varietals.  G Contact information, from an e-mail or URL to a QR codeThe pretty front label has everything you need to know — and now there’s often a wealth of new information on the back, too.

A Ageing and barrel maturation information.

B Serving and food-pairing suggestions.

C Indication of the region or terroir where the wine was made.

D Notes on the winery’s philosophy or practices.

E Importer or distributor, which might share your taste in other wines.

F Detailed information about the grape varietals.

G Contact information, from an e-mail or URL to a QR code

7. A cheat sheet

Sometimes you need to parse the shelves or a wine list with a quick but savvy eye. Voilà! A shortcut guide to trendy regions and wine styles, and fresh rules of thumb for tasting without fear.

Colour and country:

When in doubt choose whites (like Albariño) from Spain, rosés from France and reds from the U.S. (California for bolder varietals and blends, Oregon for Pinot Noir)—a highly simplified matrix that rarely disappoints.

Stellar whites:

Namecheck white wines from Portugal’s Douro region and look out for Aligoté, a staple grape in white Burgundy blends now in the varietal spotlight.

German and Austrian cool:

We all know German Riesling and Austrian Grüner Veltliner are a food pairer’s friends: watch for Austrian Riesling as the next big thing.

Egg is the new oak:

The use of big, egg-shaped concrete ageing-vats rivals barrels and stainless tanks — labels and websites often “eggs-claim” it.

Regional shortcut:

The Loire Valley in central France is a current wine world darling for whites like Chenin Blanc and light reds and rosés featuring Gamay.

Catchphrase:

Vin de soif is a French (and sommelier) catchphrase for a light, quaffable wine that’s great with or without food.

8. High-tech wine

Winemakers use drones and tablet-controlled wind machines and watering in the vineyard: time to plug into wine-tech at home. Apps like Vivino and Wine Ring expand your cellar memory, The Sonic Decanter and Ullo reportedly pour better-tasting wine and the Coravin revolutionizes single glass pours without oxidation.

9. Everyday bubbly

The time-and-labour intensive traditional method for bottle-ageing Champagne justifies its price. Winemakers’ new embrace of the Charmat tank-ageing method (long used for Prosecco) means Moderately priced bubbly can now help you toast a small work victory or Taco Tuesday. From Ontario, try Lily Sparkling Wine VQA from Colio Wine or Pelee Island Secco VQA.

10. Wine in cocktails

Aromatized (vermouth) and fortified (like sherry) wines have long been essential ingredients in sophisticated drinks. Wine is now a full-fledged star of the cocktail bar, in sangria or Champagne cocktails, spritzes or Whisky Sours with a Red-Wine Float.

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The Teabag Method: the new way to chill wine in Three Minutes

The Teabag Method #chillwinequickly
The Teabag Method #chillwinequickly

Being able to chill a glass of wine quickly is the wine equivalent of building a better mousetrap. My partner doesn’t understand why this is important – thinking, ‘what kind of person is so desperate for a glass of wine they can’t wait 60 minutes!’ Answer – EVERYONE!

My usual go-to method has been whacking a bottle of wine in the freezer. Yes, this can be relatively quick, but it’s not as quick as our new method. Plus, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve frozen the forgotten wine because I was side-tracked by the gin and tonic I had while waiting!

Wait no more – because The Wine Wankers have invented the Tea Bag Method! [Yes, there is a serious wine group called this – go, Ed]

But before we explain, let’s look at man’s previous attempts to chill wine quickly

  • Frozen Grape Method toss frozen grapes into your glass of wine to cool it down (Con – the grapes can add an unwanted flavour once they defrost in your wine)
  • Ziploc Bag method placing half your bottle of wine into a zip-lock bag and submerged this into an ice bath for six minutes (Pro: brilliantly quick. Con: too much fussing around with ingredients and props)
  • Ice + Salt + Water in Bucket Method submerge it in a bucket of salted ice water (Con – no one has that much ice in their freezer, plus it still takes 10 minutes)
  • The Wet Towel and Freeze Method wrapping the bottle in a wet dish towel and popping it in the freezer – of course, you’ll have to detach the tea towel from the bottle!. (Con – the wet towel acts as an insulation device, so it takes longer than simply whacking it in the freezer)
  • Add Ice Cubes To Your Wine Method (Con – waters down your wine – and no one wants that)

Introducing The Wine Wankers Tea Bag Method

Step 1 – fill your wine glass half full of ice so you only use the right amount of cubes
Step 2 – pour the ice cubes into a small plastic bag
Step 3 – fill your wine glass to the very top with room temperature wine
Step 4 – leave it for 3 minutes – giving it the occasional tea bag dunk to mix the wine
Step 5 – remove the bag, clean it and re-use it for another time (I hate single-use plastic – and so should you!)
Step 6 – your wine will now be chilled to perfection. Cheers!

Post by Drew, The Wine Wankers

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Covid’s impact on sensitive experts is not to be sniffed at

Industry experts have warned that food and drink are tasting different to how they did before the pandemic CREDIT: Xurxo Lobato/Cover
Industry experts have warned that food and drink are tasting different to how they did before the pandemic CREDIT: Xurxo Lobato/Cover

Is your pinot noir smelling a little funk? Perhaps your chips are on the salty side, or your chocolate is strangely bitter?

Industry experts warn that food and drink are tasting different to how they did before the pandemic because so many sommeliers and expert tasters lost their sense of taste and smell after catching covid.

Wine producers and research chefs were impaired and food product teams were forced to come up with alternative ways of deciding on flavours and formulas with some bypassing research chefs and tasting panels altogether.

The unfortunate predicament has forced some sommeliers and chefs to keep their condition quiet, while others have signed up for courses to retrain their senses in secret.

Lockdowns have affected our palates, experts say CREDIT: E+
Lockdowns have affected our palates, experts say CREDIT: E+

The winners were companies like Analytical Flavour Systems, a United States business that uses artificial intelligence to model people’s preferences when it comes to flavour, aroma and texture.

Derailed by anosmia – the partial or full loss of smell – many food producers bypassed their usual approach of asking research chefs to come up with gold-standard recipes and went straight to their A1 platform instead. ‘The pandemic was very good for our business,’ said Analytical Flavour Systems founder and chief executive Jason Cohen. ‘Companies couldn’t hold tasting panels because of social distancing rules, and when chefs couldn’t taste, we had more companies coming directly to us.’

The experience of lockdowns has also affected people’s palates, and will also start to seep into the recipes and formulas that are made. For example, while stuck at home, people drank fewer soft drinks, which has lowered their tolerance for artificial sweeteners. ‘Quarantine has been the largest consumer shock since rationing. We’re seeing huge shifts,’ Cohen said. ‘The world is not going to taste the same as it did before Covid.’

Are your chips a little too salty? CREDIT: Clara Molden/Clara Molden
Are your chips a little too salty? CREDIT: Clara Molden/Clara Molden

Analytical Flavour Systems has in the past been asked to help reformulate recipes for cancer patients and the elderly. Cohen said this could start to happen if it became clear that people’s senses had been permanently affected by Covid.

Across the industry, experts have been retraining their senses, from wine producers and restaurant sommeliers to food and drink tastes. ‘It will have affected the production of wine. I will have been asking for a second opinion by getting another professional to help,’ said Federica Zanghirella, vice-president of the UK Sommelier Association.

Zanghirella, who temporarily lost her sense of smell in the middle of a class she was leading in March 2020, added; ‘Some students say they couldn’t tell their bosses or head sommeliers, because it was too risky for their careers, so they had to use their knowledge of ingredients and flavours.’

She added that restaurant sommeliers, who pair wines with dishes on-site, had been struggling in particular.

Industries beyond food and drink have also been affected. Isabelle Gelle, the founder of the Perfumery Art School, said half of her students were now retraining after losing their sense of smell. Her clients run businesses across Britain, including soap and scents candle shops.

© Telegraph Media Group Limited 2022

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Ask a Wine Pro: When Does an Open Bottle of Wine Go Bad?

words: Julia Larson
illustration: Ariela Basson
Published: December 29, 2021

There are some times when you crave a glass of wine, but not the whole bottle. But how can you tell if your opened bottle of wine is still good?

Wine is a very finicky thing, and if not treated right, your leftover vino might as well already be poured down the drain. To learn why some wines last a little longer than others and how to avoid a little waste, VinePair taked to Alisha Blackwell-Calvert CSW, an independent wine consultant in St. Louis.

When it comes to opening a bottle of wine, Calvert says, it is a race against time. “Oxygen is a wine’s best friend, but also [its] enemy,” she says.

“Once a bottle of wine is uncorked, it’s like there is a timer on it.”

Consumers tend to think that oxygen is a good thing for wine — wine is poured into extravagant decanters, swirled in the glass, and slurped loudly by somms all in the name of incorporating oxygen into it. This is initially to let the wine “breathe,” letting oxygen back into the wine to open up flavors and aromas that were stifled in the bottle. “That initial oxygen is great — it aids in building the aroma as it transcends into your nose,” says Blackwell-Calvert.

“But depending on the wine, after a couple of days, the aromas change.”

If at first sip you got notes of fresh fruit, it can develop aromas of a cooked fruit, or even vinegar.

There are some obvious signs that a wine has gone bad, like cork taint. But when a wine has been open for too long, it can end up tasting a little bland. Or, if it was high in alcohol in the beginning, it will taste a bit boozier. If you are planning on only using a small portion of a bottle, plan ahead by using wines that have more preservatives in them, such as sulfites or sugar. Sulfites are a naturally occurring preservative that occur on the skins of the grapes, and they give wines the ability to maintain and develop flavors as they age. Sugar, on the other hand, is key to the fermentation of wine. More residual sugar likely means there is less alcohol, which is more volatile when it comes to oxygen exposure.

“Preservatives help a wine keep and stay better for longer,” says Balckwell-Calvert. “For example, a Riesling will stay for longer because it has more sugar compared to other wines.” Oak is another natural preservative, helping keep wines like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon fresher for longer.

When buying a bottle to sip throughout the course of a week, look for styles that have thicker-skinned grapes that have a bit more body and structure to them.

“Grapes that have a thinner skin, like a Grenache or a Pinot Noir, tend not to do well open because they have less preservatives and sulfites,”

says Blackwell-Calvert. “They have less tannin structure and acidity; they tend to die quicker once they’ve been opened.”

In some cases, leaving a bottle open may be more like a slowed-down way to enjoy a wine and note the differences as the flavor develops.

“There are some wines, like a Brunello di Montalcino, that will actually show better a couple of days after being open,”

says Blackwell-Calvert. “I guess that is also what a decanter is for.”

But if the wine you decided to sip on doesn’t follow any of the above criteria, there is no reason to just throw it away. “My recommendation is to put the cork as far as possible down the neck of the bottle,” says Blackwell-Calvert. “Put the bottle in the fridge; never leave it on the counter. When you are ready to drink it again, take the bottle out of the fridge for 30 to 40 minutes to warm up.”

If you are someone who repeatedly drinks a little from the bottle at a time, she also recommends buying a Coravin preserver. Or, if you’re not attached to the aesthetics of glass bottles, try a boxed wine. These often last for weeks in the fridge due to their lack of oxygen exposure.

Even if you missed every step — bought a light-bodied, high-alcohol wine and left it on the counter — but you still thought it tasted good, then go ahead and keep enjoying it.

“A wine is good if you taste it and think it tastes good,”

says Blackwell-Calvert. “If it has been open for four to five days and you still like it, then it is still a good wine.”

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