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Six of our Club joined Western Hills Wine Society for a Rockburn evening.
The Western Hills Wine Society sent an invitation to us, which was shared along with our last newsletter, to join them for their wine club evening hosted by Rockburn from Central Otago. The presenter was one of their wine-making team, Malcolm Rees-Francis.
Rockburn specialises in Pinot Noir, but the wines for the evening were:
2023 Rockburn Stolen Kiss Rose
Rockburn Amber is a Pinot Gris fermented like a Pinot Noir
Rockburn Chardonnay
Devil’s Staircase Pinot Noir
2023 Rockburn Pinot Noir
2022 Rockburn Eleven Barrels Pinot Noir
2022 Rockburn Twelve Barrels Pinot Noir
2022 Rockburn The Art Pinot Noir
We were asked to keep a little of each of the Pinot Noirs in our glasses for a vertical tasting as they rolled out. As always, it was an interesting comparison, with some divergence as to which was best.
The Amber wine was called an ‘orange wine,’ and this type of wine originates from the Georgia area of Europe. It is an interesting tipple with a nice orangey colour, slightly murky, i.e., not filtered when it left the barrel, and the Pinot Gris has spent a year in oak. This wine is built to age over ten years if you like to cellar it.
It was an interesting and fun evening with a welcoming crowd.
Along with its famous pinot noir, the region also produces excellent riesling wines CREDIT: Getty
The world’s most southerly commercial wine region, Central Otago produces pinot noir considered among the finest on earth.
There are plenty of reasons people from all over the world make the long journey to the southern part of New Zealand’s South Island.
The majestic, jaw-dropping scenery for one – Mount Cook, Milford Sound, the Southern Alps, glaciers and turquoise lakes – and the many opportunities for hiking, kayaking, climbing and (eek) bungy jumping.
I travelled there recently with another main aim – to visit the wineries of the world’s most southerly commercial vine-growing region, Central Otago. To the east of the Southern Alps, close to popular Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu, the Central Otago vines cling to a rugged, rocky terrain. Winemaking only took off here in the 1990s.
Sheltered by the mountains, it’s very arid with hardly any top soil on the foothills, and the weather can be harsh, wind whistling through the vineyards and frosts striking at almost any time of year.
But vines that have to work hard can make the very best of wines, and the nuanced, beautifully balanced pinot noir eked out in this region is considered among the finest in the world.
Mount Cook National Park is home to some jaw-dropping scenery CREDIT: Getty
Sam Neill, the New Zealand actor, owns and is based at his winery Two Paddocks in Alexandra, Central Otago. The most hands-on of “celebrity winemakers”, he tells me half-jokingly that “rational people shouldn’t make wine here”.
‘But,’ he continues, ‘I’ve learned that to produce great pinot, you have to teeter on the edge of viability.’
There’s certainly huge complexity in the region’s hard-won pinots: savoury, spicy notes, a whiff of violets and smoke and something woody-herbal, redolent of the scrubby wild thyme bushes that cling to the hillsides all around.
It’s not just pinot that makes an impact here. Chardonnay and pinot gris can impress but my favourite whites from the region are its Rieslings, usually dry and intensely flavoured with super-fresh citrus and orchard fruit. If you love German, Austrian and Australian Riesling, you really need to try these most southerly ones.
Although very few Central Otago wines make it into the major retailers (the region only produces 3% of New Zealand’s wines), plenty of independent merchants stock a few.
They’re not cheap, as you might expect from a small region with very low-yielding vineyards, but I think the best rank comfortably alongside those from the traditional, long-established vineyard areas of the world.
Peregrine Riesling 2022, Central Otago 12%, Great Wine, £28.85 | $32.00NZD Compelling and beautifully balanced organic riesling, almost dry, and aromatic with lime and lemongrass character and a very succulent long finish. The incisive acidity points to a good “ager”, although it’s delicious now, especially with white fish ceviche.
Two Paddocks Picnic Riesling 2022, Central Otago 12%, ndjohn.co.uk, £19.95; Harvey Nichols, £23 | $36.00NZD Actor Sam Neill’s organic Picnic Riesling is shot through with zesty citrus, and there are notes of green apple and pear too. It’s slightly off-dry and that dab of honey makes it a great match for ham, pork pies and mild cheeses (picnic food then) as well as seafood.
Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago 14%, Waitrose, £29.99 | $47NZD Bursting with juicy red fruits, especially red cherries, this is nonetheless much more than a sweet “fruit bomb” of a wine, with savoury, earthy and spicy complexity and ending dry. Its texture is sublimely soft and silky. I’d drink this with medium-rare duck breast.
Rockburn Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago 14%, strictlywine.co.uk, £38.50 | From $49NZD Down to £29.99 while stocks last, minimum three bottles Rockburn is one to watch. Named after the craggy landscape and with Felton Road ex-winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis at the helm, its wines are distinctively elegant and poised. This fresh, vivacious pinot offers a beguiling aroma of cherries, violets and tart raspberries. Good offer too.
Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago 14%, Lea & Sandeman, £47.50 | $67NZD Felton Road owns some of the oldest vineyards in the region, dating back to the 1990s, and is part-owned by Englishman Nigel Greening. Its near-cult status is due to pinots like this – inky purple and super-smooth, rich with ripe blackberries and a seam of chocolate, with a dash of woody herbs, especially thyme. Organic, too. Deserves a fine steak.
Another successful Cellar Club year started with a BBQ, several tastings, the AGM, another tasting, then mid-year dinner, followed by several more tastings, then finally a very successful end-of-year dinner.
In upholding tradition, and as a way of celebrating the committees’ work throughout the year, the club’s President hosts an end of year celebration for committee, partners and guests. Each year we celebrate by sampling each other’s favourite wines along with a grand selection of food. This year we were fortunate to sample many labels who have presented to the club and some who have not. The wines came from the labels La Cilla, Hunters, Clearview, Ruby Bay, Alpha Domus, Awatere River, Rapaura Springs, Lindauer, Okahu Estate, Tyrells, Old Coach Road, Olssens, Ransom, Dry River, Rod MacDonald, Rockburn, and Ash Ridge. A large and diverse range that could have gone down well at any tasting.
Thanks to our gracious hosts, club President Murray and Dina, who organised (with the gods) great weather for the event, along with the committee, wishes members and guests a joyous and safe Christmas. We look forward to seeing you all during 2019 starting with the BBQ in January. Details to come.
Goodbye Winter. Can’t say we’re sorry to see the back of you, what with the wind and the rain and the flu; when all’s said and done, there’s only so much a warming glass of red wine will fix.
However, we turn our gaze and our palates to the more benign months with a glowing shimmer of anticipation. It’s reboot and refresh time, and what better way to kick things off than with a quick A-Z of things vinous for your general edification. From A for acidity to Z for Zinfandel, there’s bound to be a little bit of something in there to intrigue and interest many of you.
What else? We feature Zephyr wines, the appropriately-named vehicle for the impressive winemaking skills of Ben Glover. Bach Brewing, only three years old but already so weighted down with medals. An exciting new offering from Gisborne’s Matawhero winery, the Irwin Chardonnay. Belvedere vodka – Polish know-how 600 years in the making. The under-the-radar genius of Champagne Moutard.
