Happy Accidents: Three Wineries Turn Mistakes into Unexpected Successes

By Natasha Bazika | November 10, 2020

Photo by Jens Johnson

No one likes mistakes, but not all blunders are bad ones. Straying from the plan can sometimes lead to something better. This is especially true in wine, where trial and error are essential, and so many changes during hands-off processes like ageing.

The Prisoner

California winemaker Dave Phinney is one of the more legendary examples. Using an ad hoc mix of grapes, he created The Prisoner, a Zinfandel-driven red blend that proved unexpectedly popular, consistently selling out and establishing a new quality benchmark for blended wines altogether.

A rare blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah, & Charbono.
A rare blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah, & Charbono.

Phinney’s not the only vintner who’s made the most from a fluke in the cellar or vineyard, however.

For John and Stacey Reinert of Napa Valley’s Brilliant Mistake Wines, it was a fleeting impulse that brought success. In 2014, they sought to create a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant red blend. They enlisted Maayan Koschitzky, winemaker at Screaming Eagle and Atelier Melka by Philippe Melka, and sourced Cab from two of Napa’s most acclaimed vineyards. When other varieties were added, however, nothing worked.

“We tried all kinds of measurements and different grapes, but it still didn’t taste right,” says John. “That is until Stacey poured two samples [Cab] bottles into one wine glass on a whim. It was mind-blowing.”

They changed course and chose to instead make a 100% Cab Sauvignon. Delicious already, but with the structure to age, the wine earned high praise and established the label’s reputation. “[It] turned out to be a phenomenal wine for us,” he says.

An Intuitive Vinification

In New York’s Finger Lakes, winemaker Thomas Pastuszak also found fortune by chance. A sommelier and wine director at NoMad New York, Pastuszak started Empire Estate winery with Kelby James Russell, winemaker at Red Newt Cellars, in 2014.

Hoping to showcase the region’s dynamic terroir, he set out to create a Riesling from multiple vineyards. But impressed by one particular organic site, he followed his gut and left the grapes apart from the others.

“We harvested the site a month after the others and…it was such a unique expression that it demanded to be on its own,” he says.

Pastuszak believes the result, Empire’s Reserve Dry Riesling, is what set the brand apart from others.

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Kiwi wine to be served to the rich and famous at Screen Actors Guild Awards

Matua and Beringer wine will be served at the 22nd annual Screen Actors Guild Awards
Matua and Beringer wine will be served at the 22nd annual Screen Actors Guild Awards

Chloe Winter, January 23 2016

Hollywood’s finest will be enjoying a drop of Kiwi wine at this year’s prestigious Screen Actors Guild Awards.

Treasury Wine Estates’ New Zealand brand, Matua, and Australian brand, Beringer, will be served to the rich and famous at the event – now in its 22nd year.

Beringer’s 2013 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and 2014 Napa Valley Chardonnay will be on offer during the awards ceremony while Matua’s 2014 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and 2014 Marlborough Pinot Noir will be served at the party afterwards.

About 1200 bottles of wine would be on-hand for celebrities to indulge in.

Treasury Wine Estates spokeswoman Megghen Driscol said guests would drink about 100 cases of wine throughout the evening.

“That’s approximately 6000 glasses of wine.”

With stars like Kate Winslet at the event, boosting brand awareness is a big aim.
With stars like Kate Winslet at the event, boosting brand awareness is a big aim.

This is the company’s third year serving wine at the awards show, Driscol said.

“We were initially approached because the organiser wanted well-respected wines that were nationally distributed – both Beringer and Matua fit that bill perfectly.”

Two wine bars would serve only Beringer, and several full-service bars would pour Matua along with other beverages, she said.

When asked whether the celebrities enjoyed their wine, Driscol said: “Well, they go through 100 cases of premium wine in one night, so one would have to assume they enjoy it…

“We don’t want to name-drop, but I can say that that several celebrities ask for Beringer and Matua by name now, so we’ve certainly created awareness amongst this highly influential group of tastemakers.”

With big names like Leonardo Dicaprio, Cate Blanchett, Helen Mirren, Johnny Depp, Kate Winslet and Rachel McAdams in attendance, brand exposure makes for great business.

“This truly is a win-win partnership.

“In addition to awareness and trial, we very much consider this to be a brand building activity which is always tough to score,” she said.

“However, we do leverage SAG content [through] our social media channels and see it as a great opportunity to build brand awareness amongst an influential group of people and create a buzz in the market.”

A few US-based Treasury Wine Estate’s staff get the honour of pouring the wine and educating the stars on the wines, she said.

The SAG awards are being held at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles on January 30.

– Stuff

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California winemakers count quake cost

AP | August 25, 2014

Winemaker Tom Montgomery walks through wine to see the damage following an earthquake at the B.R. Cohn Winery barrel storage facility Sunday, Aug. 24, 2014, in Napa, Calif. Winemakers in California’s storied Napa Valley woke up to thousands of broken bottles, barrels and gallons of ruined wine as a result of Sunday’s earthquake.  (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
Winemaker Tom Montgomery walks through wine to see the damage following an earthquake at the B.R. Cohn Winery barrel storage facility Sunday, Aug. 24, 2014, in Napa, Calif. Winemakers in California’s storied Napa Valley woke up to thousands of broken bottles, barrels and gallons of ruined wine as a result of Sunday’s earthquake. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)

Winemakers in California’s storied Napa Valley woke up to thousands of broken bottles and barrels as a result of the earthquake.

The earthquake couldn’t have come at a worse time for the region, which has just started harvesting the 2014 crop.

“It’s devastating. I’ve never seen anything like this,” said Tom Montgomery, a winemaker for B.R. Cohn Winery in Glen Ellen, California.

The epicentre of the 6.0-magnitude earthquake that struck Northern California, the strongest in the area in 25 years, was just six 10 kilometres southwest of Napa, California, the centre of California’s winemaking region.

B.R. Cohn lost “as much as 50 percent” of its wine, Montgomery said. The winery focuses on high-end, single estate wines that retail between $US40 ($A43.30) and $US100 ($A108.20) a bottle.

“It’s not just good wine we lost, it’s our best wine,” he said.

At Dahl Vineyards in Yountville, California, a rack full of wine barrels was teetering and in danger of coming down.

One barrel containing $US16,000 worth of pinot noir fell and was lost as a result of the quake.

The owners were trying to save the rest, removing the barrels with a forklift.

Elsewhere in the region, red wine stains were visible outside the doors of a warehouse – indicating there was damage inside.

Other wineries reported more modest damage.

In Oakville, Silver Oak Winery lost “a couple hundred bottles” of wine, said Ian Leggat, a spokesman for Silver Oak, as well as three barrels full of wine.

Most of the product damaged at Silver Oak was single-vineyard wines the winery uses for testing. None of the wines sold to consumers were damaged in the quake, Leggat said.

Even the wine in barrels that wasn’t damaged by the quake may have problems, however, because wines aging in barrels are supposed to be kept as still as possible, Montgomery said.

Napa is California’s best-known winemaking region. While it produces only four percent of California’s total wine crop, Napa’s wines are considered among the best in the world and sell for a premium price.

The Napa Valley does $US50 billion in economic activity a year, or roughly a quarter of wine industry for the entire US, according to Napa Valley Vintners.

The earthquake adds to what has already been a difficult year for California winemakers.

California is in the middle of its worst drought in decades, and the earthquake comes just as winemakers in the region are getting ready to harvest the 2014 crop.

Winemakers were reporting modest damage to equipment, which could affect harvesting.

 

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