Susy Atkins, Daily Telegraph UK | July 2024
The world’s most southerly commercial wine region, Central Otago produces pinot noir considered among the finest on earth.
There are plenty of reasons people from all over the world make the long journey to the southern part of New Zealand’s South Island.
The majestic, jaw-dropping scenery for one – Mount Cook, Milford Sound, the Southern Alps, glaciers and turquoise lakes – and the many opportunities for hiking, kayaking, climbing and (eek) bungy jumping.
I travelled there recently with another main aim – to visit the wineries of the world’s most southerly commercial vine-growing region, Central Otago.
To the east of the Southern Alps, close to popular Queenstown on Lake Wakatipu, the Central Otago vines cling to a rugged, rocky terrain. Winemaking only took off here in the 1990s.
Sheltered by the mountains, it’s very arid with hardly any top soil on the foothills, and the weather can be harsh, wind whistling through the vineyards and frosts striking at almost any time of year.
But vines that have to work hard can make the very best of wines, and the nuanced, beautifully balanced pinot noir eked out in this region is considered among the finest in the world.
Sam Neill, the New Zealand actor, owns and is based at his winery Two Paddocks in Alexandra, Central Otago. The most hands-on of “celebrity winemakers”, he tells me half-jokingly that “rational people shouldn’t make wine here”.
‘But,’ he continues, ‘I’ve learned that to produce great pinot, you have to teeter on the edge of viability.’
There’s certainly huge complexity in the region’s hard-won pinots: savoury, spicy notes, a whiff of violets and smoke and something woody-herbal, redolent of the scrubby wild thyme bushes that cling to the hillsides all around.
It’s not just pinot that makes an impact here. Chardonnay and pinot gris can impress but my favourite whites from the region are its Rieslings, usually dry and intensely flavoured with super-fresh citrus and orchard fruit. If you love German, Austrian and Australian Riesling, you really need to try these most southerly ones.
Although very few Central Otago wines make it into the major retailers (the region only produces 3% of New Zealand’s wines), plenty of independent merchants stock a few.
They’re not cheap, as you might expect from a small region with very low-yielding vineyards, but I think the best rank comfortably alongside those from the traditional, long-established vineyard areas of the world.
- Peregrine Riesling 2022, Central Otago
12%, Great Wine, £28.85 | $32.00NZD
Compelling and beautifully balanced organic riesling, almost dry, and aromatic with lime and lemongrass character and a very succulent long finish. The incisive acidity points to a good “ager”, although it’s delicious now, especially with white fish ceviche. - Two Paddocks Picnic Riesling 2022, Central Otago
12%, ndjohn.co.uk, £19.95; Harvey Nichols, £23 | $36.00NZD
Actor Sam Neill’s organic Picnic Riesling is shot through with zesty citrus, and there are notes of green apple and pear too. It’s slightly off-dry and that dab of honey makes it a great match for ham, pork pies and mild cheeses (picnic food then) as well as seafood. - Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago
14%, Waitrose, £29.99 | $47NZD
Bursting with juicy red fruits, especially red cherries, this is nonetheless much more than a sweet “fruit bomb” of a wine, with savoury, earthy and spicy complexity and ending dry. Its texture is sublimely soft and silky. I’d drink this with medium-rare duck breast. - Rockburn Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago
14%, strictlywine.co.uk, £38.50 | From $49NZD
Down to £29.99 while stocks last, minimum three bottles Rockburn is one to watch. Named after the craggy landscape and with Felton Road ex-winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis at the helm, its wines are distinctively elegant and poised. This fresh, vivacious pinot offers a beguiling aroma of cherries, violets and tart raspberries. Good offer too. - Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago
14%, Lea & Sandeman, £47.50 | $67NZD
Felton Road owns some of the oldest vineyards in the region, dating back to the 1990s, and is part-owned by Englishman Nigel Greening. Its near-cult status is due to pinots like this – inky purple and super-smooth, rich with ripe blackberries and a seam of chocolate, with a dash of woody herbs, especially thyme. Organic, too. Deserves a fine steak.