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Wine News by Mike Desimone and Jeff Jenssen – Robb Report – also known as the World Wine Guys, are wine spirits, food and travel writers, educators and hosts.
Sparkling Wine Will Break Free of the Holidays
The Wine Press has been saying this for years, but it looks like consumers are finally embracing the idea that Champagne and other sparkling wines are not only for special occasions and holidays. Expect to see a lot more of your friends ordering a glass of Champagne or popping a bottle open at home at regular dinners and get-togethers, not just celebrations.
The Coming Bubble Boom will have people looking beyond Champagne
RAY MASSEY/GETTY
The increased demand for sparkling wine means that we’re all going to be drinking a vriety of styles and regions, including Spanish Cava; Italian Franciacorta, Trentodoc and Prosecco; and California sparkling. Wine bars, restaurants and shops will also be offering more renditions of ‘pet-nat’, a natural sparkler than can be from anywhere wine is made.
Rosé is Going Haute
Drinking Rosé throughout the year has gone from tend to permanent status and we will see more and more premium offerings entering the market. We’ve been expecting to see luxury competition for pioneers in the space such as Domaine Ott, Château d’Esclans and Gérard Bertrand for some time, and LVMH’s major investment in Château Minuty earlier this year sealed the deal as far as we’re concerned. Expanded – and pricier – Rosé selections are on their way to a restaurant near you.
Expect Italy to Heat Up the Auction Block
WILK
We tapped Nick Pegna, Sotheby’s global head of wine and spirits, for his thoughts, and he in turn polled some of the auction house’s younger specialists to see what they’re hearing about new bright spots in the wine sphere. According to Pegna, Piedmont is on its way up in the auction world, so look to see more Barolo and Barbaresco. We’ve been hearing a lot about (and tasting plenty of) Brunello as well, so keep an eye on Italy’s three B’s.
Connoisseurs Will Have Better Options for Low and No-Alcohol Wines
As Dry January, Sober October, ‘Mindful Drinking’ and well, just drinking less persist in their upward climb, no and low alcohol wine will continue to grow as well. Many people stop drinking temporarily for numerous reasons that include pregnancy, medication regimes or training for a marathon or triathlon, yet they still want to enjoy the social aspect of having a glass of wine with friends.
Although at the onset the category was flooded with low quality dealcoholized bulk wine, we are seeing a growth in single vineyard offerings from well-known regions.
You’ll Be Hearing More About Carbon Footprints
The future of the wine industry is in peril due to rising summer temperatures and unstable weather patterns, and many producers are taking it upon themselves to sound the alarm and become changemakers. Expect to see an increase in the number of back labels talking about sustainability, low water utilization, and regenerative farming, and don’t be surprised when even top icon wines start using lighter-weight bottles to reduce the impact of freight shipping and material usage.
Younger wine drinkers are driving the movement toward transparency on this front.
White Wine’s Upswing Is Nigh
While it was thought for many years that serious wine drinkers only drink red wine, it is now obvious that for multiple reasons white wine is finally starting to be treated with equal respect. A lot of attention is being paid to white Burgundy, Napa, and Sonoma Chardonnay, the whites of the Rhône Valley, and Riesling and other aromatic varieties from Germany, Austria, Alsace, and Alto Adige in Italy. And we’re seeing a rise in interest in premium white wine from Spain, Greece, Portugal, Croatia, New Zealand, and other Italian regions. As much as we love our steak and Cabernet Sauvignon, since we all are moving toward a lighter style of eating—at least occasionally—we are going to see our wine choices change to match.
Two Words Collide – June NZ House & Garden
If you can’t decide between wine or beer, check out Garage Project’s Savoir Faire Pinot Noir Raspberry ’18. It’s a beer/wine hybrid, made from hand-harvested Marlborough pinot noir grapes, lightly crushed, added to a specially brewed malt wort and allowed to ferment for a week before being aged in oak wine barrels then rested on fresh raspberries. 750ml $35 from garageproject.co.nz.
Something Different – July NZ House & Garden
SOUTHERN CHARMS: New to the gin game, Bluff Distillery draws inspiration from the spirit of New Zealand’s southernmost town, making gin that reflects the essence of Bluff – ‘clean, bold and unapologetically authentic’. The London Dry-style gin comes in a custom bottle in the shape of an old glass buoy, a symbol of the maritime heritage that defines this tiny town. 700ml $89.85 from bluffdistillery.com.
ROCKIN’ VERMOUTH: Central Otago distillery Scapegrace has teamed up with its wine-making neighbours, Profhet’s Rock, to produce Scapegrace x Prophet’s Rock Vermouth, available in red and white. Mostly made with local ingredients, the white vermouth is bright and herbaceous with candied floral notes, finishing woody and bitter with wild thyme and wormwood. 705ml $72 from prophetsrock.co.nz and scapegracedistilleryy.com.
Changes could be ahead for food and wine festival Toast Martinborough, after the event was purchased by Foley Wines.
As a run of hard luck threatened to drag Wairarapa’s famous wine and food festival down, one of the most influential industry players stepped in to save the day.
The Covid-19 pandemic, poor weather and increased compliance costs had caught up with the trust – that runs Toast Martinborough, but Foley Wines has offered to take ownership of the event that has been running for more than 30 years.
In a difficult financial situation, Toast Martinborough’s board attempted to raise capital from its shareholders but could not pull together the necessary funds to meet its obligations.
Foley Wines offered to buy out shareholders and pay outstanding debts with suppliers. The board unanimously accepted its offer.
Foley chief executive Mark Turnbull said they were excited by the opportunity to take over custodianship of the event and they were keen to revitalise its format for the future.
This could mean changing the time of year and possibly shifting it from a Sunday to a Saturday. “You know what the weather’s like in November — four seasons in one day.”
“While the strategy is still evolving, our team intends to work collaboratively with the community to ensure Toast Martinborough remains an iconic event for years to come,” Turnbull said.
The international company has deep ties to South Wairarapa. It owns Te Kairanga and Martinborough Vineyard wineries, the Lighthouse Gin distillery, and the recently opened $10 million development The Runholder.
American billionaire Bill Foley is a majority shareholder, and he also has other assets in the region including Wharekauhau Country Estate, and Wellington’s Pravda, Shed 5, and Crab Shack.
Turnbull said Foley was intensely interested in Wairarapa and was on board with the decision to buy out the event. “His family love Toast. We’ve just got off a call with some of his senior people in the US with some ideas from Sonoma and Napa festivals.
“He’s definitely keen and he’d much prefer coming in February when it’s a bit warmer.” Turnbull wouldn’t say the level of investment they were making in the event, but it was important that they looked after the region and cleared the trust’s debts. “I believe it brought in about $15 million to the region from Toast and that’s really important for everyone, so that was our motivation.
“And it was also about making sure that the people that were owed money were paid.” Foley Wines also covered Toast’s $5000 pledge to the Martinborough Youth Trust, which will be matched by Wharekauhau Country Estate and Foley Hospitality, bringing the donation total to $10,000.
Former Toast Martinborough board chair Pete Monk said the festival had faced hurdles in recent years and was thankful that Foley Wines could step in. “The past few years have posed significant challenges,” he said.
“This outcome hands over custodianship to one of our founding shareholders, meaning the festival is in excellent hands for its next chapter.”
You’ll all remember the article I published on the Granite Belt in the August edition of our Cellar Club Newsletter, of course. The Granite Belt has over 50 wineries, from boutique producers through to award-winning estates – along with breweries and distilleries [for vodka and gin].
Well, I decided it would be a great break to go see what it was actually like.
This holiday was a little tempered when the area in Brisbane had a series of fires start in early November just before we were due to go. So, we tracked them as best we could via the internet, plus were in contact with the locals [via email]. The locals confirmed the fires were out in their area before we departed New Zealand shores.
The damage done by the fires was quite apparent as we got close to the Granite Belt, which is between 900 – 1,000m above sea level. Both sides of the road were scorched in places, and the railway line that [did] run through Granite Belt territory was completely charred. They use untreated timber in Australia and treat the rails with creosote to preserve it! Fuel to burn there.
On the way to the Granite Belt area, we stopped at the Summer Lane Camel Farm. Nice, and a different place to have morning tea, buy gifts and experience camels, if you’ve never had this experience.
On the Friday evening when we arrived in the Granite Belt, our first stop was at Balancing Heart Vineyard, a short drive from the town of Ballandean, with the backdrop of Girraween National Park. We indulged in a tasting flight and one of their woodfired pizzas – well worth it. They were welcoming and had a relaxed approach at the end of the day.
Balancing Heart Vineyard
Blanc de Blanc – blend of their chardonnays
Verdello – soft, pineappley taste, dry on palate
Rosé – cherries on the tongue and nose
While we were enjoying our time at the vineyard, we could walk along the vines and see the naturally occurring balancing rocks. These were throughout the area and are huge! You could slightly smell the smell of ash or burnt wood in the air, but as they’d had four days of rain before we arrived, the odour wasn’t that strong at all.
Well worth a visit, taste wise and visually.
Saturday, and our second vineyard was Ravencroft Vineyard, which is a boutique vineyard and small batch winery, founded by award-winning winemaker Mark Ravenscroft. The new owners had worked with Mark for three years to get a good transfer of knowledge and skill. All wines are made on-site with minimal intervention and additives.
We joined in with other visitors and did a full tasting:
Verdelho 2022 – very gentle on both nose and taste
Vermintino 2022 – really lemony [their crop wasn’t very good that year, so they imported the grapes from Chalmers in Victoria]
Skin Contact Fiano 2022 – smooth with honey and fruit on the tongue [this is a Naples variety]
Reserve Chardonnay 2021 – it had eight months in oak, and was lovely
Rose Sangiovese – dry Italian style, smooth, could alter with food [Tuscany variety] had added Fiano and Vermentino to boost flavour
Nero d’Avola 2022 – light and grassy – would go great with pizza on a Friday night [Chile variety]
Reserve Petite Verdot – aged in old oak barrels, you can taste mushrooms/ earthiness, smooth and dry.
2022 Cherry Bomb – total cherry nose, smooth, dry, nice cherry flavours on the tongue
Pinotage Waagee 2021 – smooth, dry, fruity, lemony bite at the end as it goes down.
Would recommend a visit, to relax in the atmosphere and taste their wines.
That same day, while it’s not a vineyard, it’s well worth going for a meal at Varias Restaurant & Fine Training facility, training the staff of the future. Their menu reads like a tantalising travelogue of the Granite Belt’s finest food producers. We had the two-course option at $59 per head, plus wines of course:
Sparkling Marsaane – pear, citrus and honey esp. honey, went magnificently with the pork belly entrée’
2023 Verdelho – pears on the nose and palate [John’s wine for the whole meal]
Tempranillo 2023 bronze medal Qld Awards – soft tannins, dry finish, white pepper, red fruit, went well with the Main of brisket with broccalini, pumpkin, greens beans and the best road potatoes.
Dessert was Lemon meringue pie with Raspberry ice cream.
This establishment would be the equivalent to the Whitireia & Weltec Hospitality Campus we’ve been to as a Club in Cuba Street. Well balanced and thought-out meals and wine combinations. Located at the Queensland College of Wine Tourism, this restaurant is all about celebrating seasonal produce year-round.
Then on Sunday, we had what was the most comprehensive wine tasting of the week in the Granite Belt, at Ballandean Estate Wines. Ballandean Estate is Queensland’ oldest operating winery family-owned and operated by the Puglisi family since 1932.
This is a single-vineyard, cool climate made-with-love wine establishment, with Shiraz from 50-year- old vines, as well as their ‘Strange Bird’ varietals.
We had booked in for one of their tastings, hosted by their wine educators. Their tasting came six limited release wines served with a gourmet platter, to complement the tasting. The platter turned out to be a meal in itself! When you arrive at the Estate, you go through to their Barrelroom Wine Lounge.
Must add in that they had a disability path, as well as their main steps, into them establishment. Handy if you are disabled, but perhaps mostly handy on the way out?
Ballandean Estate is one of the vineyards in the Belt that grow ‘Strange Bird’ wines. Strange Bird wines are rare, alternative varieties that represent less than one per cent of Australian vines – albarino (also known as alvarine), chenin blanc, cortese, fiano, gewurztraminer, gros and petit manseng, gruner veltliner, malvasia, marsanne, roussane and savagnin. While we didn’t taste all of these, we certainly tried a few.
Monday night we dined at Granite Belt Brewery. On the way up their driveway, driving past the vines, we saw kangeroos grazing the vines, with joeys in their pouches, so special. They weren’t bothered by us, but were keeping an eye on us, as we’d stopped the car for the photo opportunity. The Brewers is Stanthorpe’s premier brewers, crafting delicious beers and ciders since 2012. They use the local water supply, as well as the finest malts, hops and yeast.
It wasn’t a busy night for the restaurant, but it was about half full, and while they were focussed on craft beer the food and wine was fabulous. Everything was of course overwhelmed by the thunder and lightning storm that hit sometime before we were to leave to go back to our accommodation. Driving back-country roads without the sky full of stars to guide you [besides the GPS], was a little dodgy, so the valley-wide lightening was quite helpful!
OTHER things we enjoyed seeing during our stay was their Mt Marlay lookout – don’t walk up to it! There is an 8% gradient to get up that particular piece of road – drive!
Go and find their pyramid – a local farmer got overwhelmed by the number of smaller granite rocks on his property and constructed a 17m high pyramid with them! Quite impressive and good photo opportunity, though you can’t get into the field now, selfie still looks pretty cool.
Viewing their giant thermometer is fun too. The Belt is the only area in Queensland that usually gets snow every winter. They’re fully equipped and operational during their Winters for visitors.
They have their own Granite Belt Christmas Tree Farm, which was so much fun! This runs from Oct-Feb of each year. We were there in the last week of November, and it was packed! As well as rolling up to pick your own tree, getting it cut down, then using their tree wrap machine(!) there was a huge barn set up for all sorts of artificial trees and larger decorations, a smaller building with shop full of smaller decorations, plus morning tea supplies and gelato – we tried Christmas cake gelato and Kinder gelato. Both passed the test. Again, would recommend if you’re there at that time. Go to Sutton’s Juice Factory & Cidery – they are famous for their apple pie, and their steak pies are pretty good to! We indulged in both.
There were two places that we wouldn’t recommend, as the experience we were anticipating simply didn’t happen:
Hidden Creek, whose website we had checked 2-3 times before we got to it, to see if we could breakfast there. According to their website this was ok, but on getting to their vineyard, not so:
Robert Channon Wines was off-hand and disorganised. Not welcoming to the point that even though their vineyard had an ‘Open’ sign out at the gate, no-one was around, facilities were semi- closed and the only person we saw ran away!
Despite the above two businesses, we had a delightful time, met interesting and informative people and tasted some great wines. Would recommend paying a visit to the area if you don’t mind a three-hour drive inland from Brisbane.
It’s a steaming 26.5C in Hawke’s Bay as a retired King’s Counsel handpicks Chardonnay grapes in the wake of a cyclone.
He’s one of a team of volunteers who heeded the call from winemaker and Chardonnay specialist Tony Bish, who’s lost 75% of his intended intake to the rain and floods this season. “We’ve written off about 150 tonnes out of a 200-tonne intake,” Tony says on 9 March, about to drive his trailer of freshly picked fruit back to the winery. “It’s been a hard season.”
But despite knowing he won’t meet export orders, which take up half his production, Tony is heartened by the response from his local community, with people of all ages joining the harvest, alongside a team of seasonal workers from Vanuatu.
Tony Bish, Winemaker
The wine community has pitched in too, with Marlborough growers offering a lifeline for Tony’s Fat & Sassy consumer brand. On realising the extent of crop losses, Tony emailed his contacts in the region and revealed he was “desperate for Chardonnay”.
The response was good, both from those willing to part with their fruit, and others offering moral support. “It’s a case of Marlborough helping Hawke’s Bay,” he adds. “Basically the story will be Fat & Sassy goes to Marlborough. Thanks to our colleagues in Marlborough helping us through a cyclone, we’ll be able to keep continuity in the domestic market.”
In the meantime, he’s excited about the quality of fruit still hanging on the vine, to be picked at the end of March for his premium labels. “We are going to pick some really good fruit, so there’s a happy ending in sight. It’s going to deliver something delicious.”
While there are two resignations from the present Committee, six people are staying on. Club members have been approached for new positions, and numbers are now back to eight for the new committee.
Member support
It was great to have everyone help with the tables and chairs at the start of last month’s meeting and take the same down after the meeting. Also, take the table’s contents: spittoons/water jugs/cracker plates back to the kitchen. Could we please continue this new routine?
Arrival times
We can’t arrive to do the setting up activities any earlier than 7:30 pm as we interrupt the cleaner(s) schedule; the cleaners are in the hall until 7:30 pm.
By Samantha Maxwell & Hayley Hamilton Cogill Tasting Table | Aug 8, 2022 & others
If you’re a beginner in the world of red wine, walking down a wine aisle at a local wine shop or even your grocery store can be intimidating. Sure, you know that Merlot and Malbec are both red, but your knowledge doesn’t go too far beyond that. If that’s the case for you, don’t worry. We’re here to shed some light on the red wine section. The truth is, the vast majority of red wines come down to a handful of grapes, so if you know about those grapes, then you’ll have a much clearer picture of the wine landscape. That can help you choose the perfect red for that steak dinner or select a bottle for your friend’s housewarming party.
We’re going to cover 10 common types of red wine you’ll find on shelves. Of course, there are countless other varieties out there, but these are the types you’re most likely to see regularly. Get acquainted with these varieties first, then make your way to your local wine shop and try them out for yourself. After all, the best way to determine what kind of wine you prefer is by sipping it yourself. Ready to get started? Here’s every major type of red wine you’d ever need to know.
1. Merlot
If you’re looking for an easy, approachable red wine to start sipping, you certainly can’t go wrong with a Merlot. According to Wine Enthusiast, it’s one of the most popular red wines in the world, and it comes in at number two in red wine popularity in the United States (right behind Cabernet Sauvignon). It’s a versatile grape that can be transformed into fruity or oaky wines alike, serving a variety of taste palettes.
When you get a good Merlot, you’re going to experience a well-balanced wine with moderate tannins, moderate acidity, and relatively high alcohol content. Though individual bottles may vary significantly, you can expect a medium or full-bodied wine. It’s common for tasters to pick up notes of cherry, berries, or plums, or you might get a taste of chocolate or vanilla if you’re drinking an oakier variety (via Wine Folly).
While a wine featuring only Merlot grapes is common on its own, these grapes also commonly find their way into Bordeaux blends. One thing’s for sure: If you bring a Merlot to a dinner party, no one is going to complain. We think this is a great entry point for all those just beginning to get into wine.
2. Zinfandel
Let’s clear one thing up right away: Zinfandel is not the same thing as white Zinfandel. The latter is a sweet or off-dry rosé that many wine drinkers dislike. Of course, if you like it, you should enjoy it, but you definitely shouldn’t confuse it with Zinfandel, which is a red wine with moderate tannins and high alcohol levels, per Wine Folly. This results in a big-bodied wine that pairs well with various Arabic and Mediterranean cuisines. However, the wine itself is originally from Croatia, which has a thriving wine industry. Fun fact: Per Wine Folly, Zinfandel is the only grape varietal in the world that has an annual festival called the ZAP Wine Festival.
While white Zinfandel might be more common on grocery store wine shelves than red Zinfandel, you can usually find the latter without too many issues. This grape is also often found in California red blends (via VinePair). If you’re looking for a bold, robust red that will pair deliciously with all of your favorite foods like grilled meats and mezze, you may find just what you’re searching for in a Zinfandel.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon
Moderately bold, full-bodied, and perfect for pairing with food, it’s hard not to love a good Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an extremely popular type of wine. In fact, it’s the most popular in the world. Like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon is a great variety for beginner red-drinkers, as it’s both easy to obtain and has a widely appreciated taste. You may notice notes of black cherry or black currant if you’re enjoying a fruitier Cab, while an oakier variety may evoke notes of graphite or cedar, per Wine Folly. Cabernet Sauvignon is produced worldwide, from France, Italy, and Spain to South Africa, Argentina, and even China.
One of the reasons Cabernet Sauvignons are so popular is because they age really well. Tannins and chemical compounds referred to as phenolics ensure that Cabs taste amazing even after they’ve been in a cellar for decades (via The California Wine Club). The tannins in this wine are more pronounced in younger bottles, but older vintages tend to be more mellow, thus pairing with a wider variety of foods. If you’re looking for the perfect entryway into the world of red wine, grab yourself a Cabernet Sauvignon the next time you’re out.
4. Nebbiolo
According to Wine-Searcher, while Nebbiolo grapes are produced in many parts of the world, they’re overwhelmingly grown in the Piedmont region of Italy. It has high-quality wines that are known for their intense tannin and acidity. Because of these qualities, they pair well with cheese and other fatty, creamy dishes, as the acidity helps cut through those intense flavors (via “Wine Folly: Magnum Edition”). Taste for notes of cherry, leather, rose, and star anise.
You may find cheaper Nebbiolo varieties on the market, but you should expect to pay around $30 for a good bottle. Due to this price point and its intense, bold flavor, Nebbiolo is generally not a wine that new drinkers start with, but it’s certainly worth a try if you’re looking for something new and interesting. There’s a chance that you won’t be able to find it in your grocery store wine aisle, but most well-stocked wine stores, especially those with robust Italian sections, should carry a wide selection of Nebbiolo. This wine can be consumed young, but it typically ages well rather quickly.
5. Syrah (Shiraz)
This one causes quite a bit of confusion for some new wine drinkers because it technically has two names. According to Wine Folly, the grape originated in France’s Rhone Valley, a legendary wine-producing area. However, since then, it has made its way to Australia, and it’s now the most-planted grape in the country. In Australia, they don’t refer to it as Syrah like they do in Europe. Instead, it’s called Shiraz. If you see different wine bottles with these different names, you’ll know that they’re the same grape, and it gives you an idea about where that particular bottle was produced.
This full-bodied red wine has a moderately high alcohol level, medium-high tannins, and tends to be on the drier side (though not intensely so). It’s excellent when paired with dark meats and intense spices, as those flavors tend to bring out its fun, fruity side. Notes of blueberry and plum are standard, as are tobacco and milk chocolate aromas.
If you’re already a fan of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and want to branch out to try something new, Syrah is an excellent option. These wines share many of the same characteristics, but Syrah is a slightly less common find in the U.S.
6. Malbec
Are you looking for a way to get into South American wines? Then do we have a treat for you: it’s called Malbec! Malbec is grown everywhere from South Africa to New Zealand, but most of its production comes from Argentina, per Wine Folly. VinePair says that it’s been a popular blending grape in France for over 100 years, but Malbec has grown as a wine in its own right over the past few decades. And the stuff from Argentina is generally regarded as some of the best.
If you like juicy, fruity wines, Malbec is going to be perfect for you. Don’t assume that juiciness means it will be too sweet, though. Most Malbec is quite dry. We love that this type of wine is affordable so that everyone can enjoy it. If you’re looking for a good bottle of Malbec, you can expect to spend around $15. You should be able to find Malbec at most shops that sell wine.
While many red wines tend to have a longer finish (meaning the flavor stays with you for a while after you take a sip), the finish on Malbec is relatively short. This means it’s great for pairing with red meats that tend toward the leaner side.
7. Pinot Noir
Burgundy is one of the most legendary wine regions globally, and Pinot Noir is right at home there, according to Decanter. However, it’s also grown in other parts of the world, from Chile to Switzerland, so you shouldn’t worry about tracking down a Burgundy if you can’t find it at first. This light-bodied red is great for those who generally drink white wine but want to branch out and try something new. It’s not very sweet, but the acidity is intense, making it ideal for pairing with foods that you normally wouldn’t think of eating with a glass of red wine (via “Wine Folly: Magnum Edition”). Chicken, for instance, is an excellent pairing with Pinot Noir.
Unfortunately, Pinot Noir can be more expensive than other bottles, which means you’ll want to spend around $30 for a bottle of the good stuff. Pinot Noir is an incredibly finicky varietal for grape growers to work with, per Wine Enthusiast, since it is susceptible to disease and root rot. But even though it is hard to grow, Pinot Noir is a fave for many drinkers, and if you haven’t tried it yet, it’s worth a sip.
8. Cabernet Franc
Never seen a Cabernet Franc in the flesh before? You’re not alone. It’s not especially common to see this wine on its own because it is most often used for blending with other varietals into Bordeaux red wines. However, it is sometimes produced as a single varietal, according to MasterClass. When you drink this wine, expect a medium-bodied red with plenty of acidity that makes it sippable and perfect to pair with tomato-based dishes. You might pick up on notes of strawberry or raspberry as well as bell pepper and chili pepper.
If you’re looking for intense tannins, then Cabernet Franc is probably not for you. While it can often be confused with Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon grapes have a thicker skin than Franc ones, which gives Sauvignon a heavier and more intense flavor. However, if you’re not super into red wines generally, this wine is a great place to start. It’s a fun option to serve at a party if you want to introduce your guests to something a little different than what they might be used to drinking.
9. Sangiovese
According to Wine Folly, Italy, Tuscany grows most of the world’s Sangiovese, a dry, acidic, savory red wine. Because it’s so acidic, it can pair well with spicy and other acidic dishes, making it one of our favorites for a dinner party. It pairs excellently with tomatoes and potent herbs. It can be a great option for vegetarian cooking — as long as the food you’re eating has plenty of plant-derived fats. However, Sangiovese generally isn’t amazing for pairing with sweet dishes, so if you’re looking for a dessert-adjacent drink, it’s usually not the way to go.
Wine Folly refers to Sangiovese as a “chameleon,” meaning that different wines using this varietal will taste different. The variation is huge, so it pays to learn about the specific region you’re getting your Sangiovese from if you’re curious about the details. This fun, interesting wine is a great option for food lovers and those who want to branch out to slightly less recognized varietals that are still widely available.
10. Grenache
Grenache, also known as Garnacha in Spain, is a common grape used in wines throughout the world. VinePair describes the flavor as berry-forward with notes of strawberries and white pepper along with a hint of Fruit Roll=Ups. Umm … sign us up! This varietal was originally cultivated in Spain, and it’s sold both as a single varietal as well as appearing in blended bottles. You may want to consider pairing it with autumnal dishes like roasted veggies, lamb, or even prime rib. However, The Wine Cellar Insider shares that it’s extremely versatile, so don’t be afraid to try some creative pairings if that’s what you’re into.
While Grenache can be quite expensive, you won’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy this wine to its fullest. A $15 to $20 bottle can give you a good idea of what this grape offers and initiate you into a whole new world of red wine. Give it a try the next time you cook a special dinner.
11. Lambrusco
From Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco is a regional designation and a mix of various grapes that grow wildly and flourish quickly (via Wine Traveler). Yes, it can be confusing. Don’t fret, though. You’ll love this type if you like juicy, lively wine with an effervescence. With origins potentially dating back to 160 BC, Wine Folly says Lambrusco tends to be low-alcohol and easy-drinking.
The different varieties range from pale-pink to inky purple, the site says, and are produced either dry or semi-sweet. The wines also tend to have aromas of wildflower, black cherry, pomegranate, and wild herbs. Flavors can be fruit-forward like tart cranberry and sour cherry, or savory with black tea, spice, and olive. Best served chilled, this type of sparkling wine always has a bubbly element as a semi-sparkling frizzante or fully-carbonated spumante.
Regional classifications can help you determine which you’ll most enjoy. Lambrusco di Modena is an uncomplicated and approachable introductory style. Lambrusco di Grasparossa is dark, dry, and structured with blue-and-black fruit flavors, bold tannins, and mouth-watering astringency. If you’re a fan of semi-sweet, fruity, and creamy wines, Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco Reggiano should be on your list.
Lambrusco is known for high acidity that pairs with rich, fatty foods, particularly from the Emilia-Romagna province — home of balsamic vinegar of Modena, mortadella, and Parmesan-Reggiano cheese. Pair Lambrusco with parmesan risotto or a charcuterie board with Prosciutto di Parma.
12. Barbera
Slo Wine shares that over 5000 varieties of wine grapes are included in the Italian National Registry! Of which, they add about 350 are actively growing native varieties. Within Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region, Barolo might be best known for its production of powerful, tannic (and often expensive) wine from nebbiolo grapes.
But, it isn’t the only variety grown in this region notable for white truffles, chestnuts, and hazelnuts. The barbera wine grape thrives on low slopes and valleys below the fog line (as in, the less-than-prime locations) throughout the Piedmont province, notes Wine Folly.
Barbera wines are fleshy and food-friendly with a light-to-medium body. With its rich purple color, this wine can confuse your palate. You may expect the wine to be dense and tannic. Instead, barbera is aromatic and fresh with high acidity. The wine site shares the wine’s flavors include juicy wild strawberry, tart cherry, and pencil lead. A young, fresh style of wine also has a structure, texture, and balance that is ideally enjoyed the first few years after release.
Some of the best come from vineyards around Asti and Alba, where the wines are bright and fresh with an easy approachability. Outside of Italy, barbera is grown in California, Australia, and Argentina, typically delivering darker fruit notes with higher alcohol from the warmer growing conditions.
Barbera wine is usually quite affordable, making it the perfect Tuesday night wine for pairing with regional dishes like truffle-topped chestnut agnolotti.
13. Tempranillo
Tempranillo is a tale of mediums: Medium to full-bodied, medium to low acidity, medium to high tannin, medium alcohol, and a lot of flavor. Though various red wine varieties originate in Spain, tempranillo is the country’s signature grape. Foods and Wines of Spain says tempranillo grapes cover 20% of Spain’s total vineyard area. The grape’s native region, Rioja, enjoys high elevations with warm days and cool nights, resulting in balanced, fresh wines with notes of red fruit, soft herb, and leather. In central Spain’s Ribera del Duero and Toro regions, Wine-Searcher finds the wines are more rugged, tannic, and high in alcohol due to the extreme temperatures.
Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano, meaning early, because it ripens quickly, producing thick-skinned grapes on highly productive vines. The variety goes by different names, including tinto fino, cencibel, and tinta de toro, with each showing different characteristics and styles. The best tempranillo wines are from areas preserving the fruit’s natural acidity.
Tempranillo has an affinity for American oak aging, embracing the oak’s vanilla coconut flavors in the wine. As the wine ages, tertiary qualities emerge like dried cherry, fig, and woody herbs. By law, a Rioja Reserva wine must age at least three years, of which one year must be in barrel and six months in bottle (via Rioja Wine). Rioja delivers incredible quality for the price point. Delicious Rioja Reserva wines are available for under $20 from producers like CVNE, Beronia, and LAN.
14. Carménère
As Spain has tempranillo and Argentina has malbec, the signature red wine of Chile is carménère. Though a native Bordeaux variety, its success shines brightest in South America. After phylloxera devastated the vine in France, carménère was considered extinct. However, before the pest spread throughout Europe, vintners took cuttings of the carménère vines to Chile says Wine Enthusiast.
Vinepair adds Chilean vintners had misunderstood what variety they were growing for decades. They thought the carménère was merlot, and treated it as such in the vineyard, harvesting the fruit side by side with early-ripening grape. In the 1990s scientists confirmed they were growing a late-ripening carménère. In 1998, the Chilean Department of Agriculture designated carménère as a distinct variety, skyrocketing production. The sun-loving variety now thrives throughout Chile’s Central Valley.
Carménère wines made from unripe grapes display bitter green pepper, paprika, and Tabasco. These qualities are similar to the carménère parent grape, Cabernet Franc. The wines have moderate tannin, medium to full body, rich concentration, and flavors of black plum, fig, cherry, and woody herb. Though most carménère grapes are grown in Chile, vintners in Italy and New Zealand dabble with small productions, though they too likely began growing the grape confusing it with something else.
15. Tannat
Tannat is believed to originate from the Basque country on the border of France and Spain. Today, it is most widely planted in France’s Madiran region. Wine Enthusiast says tannat’s opaque, purplish-black wine grapes are filled with tannin and thrive in arid, desert-like conditions, like the dry and dusty vineyards of California’s Paso Robles.
Tannat is the signature variety of wine grape for Uruguay, where vintners first planted tannat vines in the 1870s. However, Uruguayan tannat is unlike other versions worldwide, in part, because cuttings came from vines from the Basque country arrived before the phylloxera louse wiped out much of Europe’s vineyards throughout the 1800s (via Vinepair). Chile’s old vine tannat produces wines that have bold tannin with racy acidity, dense concentration and structure, and a rustic yet finessed Old World style.
In addition to its powerful flavor profile, tannat may be one of the healthiest red wines available. The Grape Collective adds tannat has high levels of antioxidants, including polyphenols, procyanidins, flavenoids, and resveratrol, thanks to the number of seeds grown within tannat grapes; most grapes have two or three seeds, but tannat has five. If you haven’t tried tannat and want to start with a good one, we love Bodega Garzon — and we’re not the only ones. Bodega Garzon’s Reserva Tannat has landed on Wine Enthusiast’s top 100 wines of the year multiple times.
16. Mourvèdre
Deep and intense, mourvèdre is a robust, sun-loving grape that creates concentrated, full-bodied wines. The variety originates from eastern Spain, where it is known as monastrell. Cellar Tours finds that Phoenicians are believed to have introduced the grape to Spain around 500 BC before the Romans brought it to France, where it took on its internationally recognized name, mourvèdre. A challenging variety to work with, the late-ripening grape requires a long-growing cycle to fully mature, which pushes alcohol levels to extremes, often exceeding 16%, says Cellar Tours. It becomes a continuous juggling act in the vineyard as picking mourvèdre wine grapes early, before the fruit is ripe, creates intensely tannic wines with astringency.
Blending mourvèdre with other varieties, like grenache and syrah, helps create wines with balance and appealing flavors, such as the bold wines of France’s Bandol. Wine Folly shares that Bandol wines are full-bodied and tannic, with peppery, meaty flavors. Wile the wine grape is integral to red blends, in Spain, mourvèdre, or monastrell, is still showcased on its own.
Mourvèdre benefits from aging to soften tannins, the wine site suggests up to ten years for the Bandol selections. Open and decant mourvèdre wine an hour or so before dinner to introduce oxygen into the wine, helping the flavors open. The meaty and robust wines pair well with hearty dishes like boneless short ribs, roasted leg of lamb, or venison.
17. Portuguese Field Blend
Deep red grapes creates sweet, fortified port wines, and dry, concentrated red table wines.
If you stroll through the slate-filled, steeply terraced vineyards along the Douro River in Portugal, you will see a patchwork of vines known as the Portuguese field blend. The Best Portugal explains this melange of deep red grapes creates sweet, fortified port wines, as well as dry, concentrated Portuguese red table wines. The site says the combination varies, but includes varieties like tinto roriz (the Portuguese tempranillo), touriga nacional, alicante bouchet, touriga franca, and legally upwards of 90 more. All of these are warm-weather varieties that thrive in hot, arid temperatures.
Wine-Searcher reports the effects of global warming in wine-producing regions means thick-skinned, high-tannin, and warm weather varieties that might have been obscure in the past could become the standard vines in the future. The site says varieties commonly included in the Portuguese field blend are heat resistant and adapt well to little rainfall and extreme daytime temperatures.
Although Portugal’s field blend is often best associated with fortified port wines, the blends meld harmoniously as dry Portuguese table wines. Wine Enthusiast shares that in the past these wines left much to be desired; however, when Portugal joined the European Union in 1986, investment from the EU brought about essential improvements and modern technology to vineyards and wineries — white Vinho Verde has famously benefited from a modern update. Leading Portuguese winemakers, like Symington and Esporao, are crafting high-quality, affordable table wines that are powerful and have an easy-drinking, balanced style.
18. Red Meritage
Blend of words: “merit” to indicate quality and “heritage,” referring to the historic art of blending.
Every Bordeaux wine is a blend of select varieties — including cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot — that must come from the celebrated Bordeaux region in France. So, how could every other international winemaker blending these varieties distinguish their wine as a premium product and differentiate itself from various other Bordeaux-style red table blends?
Enter the Meritage Alliance: The Alliance began in the United States in 1988, known then as the Meritage Association, when producers sought a way to discern their New World wine blends. The name is a blend of words: “merit” to indicate quality and “heritage,” referring to the historic art of blending. With the label, premium quality blends of white and red noble varieties denoted higher prestige and the finest wines of the vintage, particularly the red blends from Napa Valley.
The Meritage Alliance is dominated by New World members mainly from California but includes international makers from Argentina, Mexico, Australia, and Canada. For red wines to be classified as a Meritage, the grape blend must contain only cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petit verdot, carmenère, or the relatively obscure varieties of Saint-Macaire and Gros Verdot. Red Meritage wines can also include no more than 90% of any one variety. Enjoy red Meritage wines with dishes that pair well with Bordeaux wines, including braised lamb, pork belly, beef cheeks, or slow-cooked, sous vide ribeye.
19. Gamay
Best served slightly chilled, highlighting the natural fruit notes.
If you have ever tried a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau wine, you have enjoyed gamay grapes. The quickly produced, grape juice-like wine is released on the third Thursday of November and raced from the Beaujolais region to Paris to celebrate the first wines of the season on Beaujolais Nouveau Day. But, gamay wines are so much more than the youthful nouveau selections.
Like pinot noir in weight and body, gamay has light tannin and high acidity, shares Vinepair. Gamay wines are also usually best served slightly chilled, highlighting the natural red fruit notes. Styles range from light and fresh to well-rounded and age-worthy. One thing is sure, all gamays are approachable, easy to drink, and delicious.
The most famous gamay wines come from Beaujolais, a 34-mile-long area in central France south of Burgundy that encompasses 12 regional designations. Vinepair says wines labeled as Beaujolais are most common, but the 10 cru Beaujolais, like Morgon, Fleurie, and Brouilly, are the most high-quality wines. If you are a fan of light-bodied wines, Wine Folly says wines from Fleurie showcase floral aromas with a delicate softness. If you prefer something heartier, the site adds the Morgon wines are similar in taste to pinot noir from Burgundy thanks to notes of dark cherry, mushroom, and truffle, especially when allowed to age.
Due to gamay’s overall low alcohol, juicy fruit, and fresh acidity, the wine is incredibly food-friendly: Pair with salmon tacos, crispy roast duck, and roasted turkey and cranberry sauce on Thanksgiving.
20. Mencia
Spain’s answer to Pinot Noir
Mencía is Spain’s answer to Pinot Noir. The thick-skinned up-and-coming mencía grape produces aromatic, complex wines filled with notes of wildflowers melding with dried leaves or truffles. These intoxicating aromas lead to flavors of wild strawberry and pomegranate, then finishing with spicy, freshly cracked pepper. Cellar Tours says mencía, pronounced “men-thee-ah,” is a native variety to northwest Spain, specifically Bierzo in Castilla y Leon and neighboring Galicia. The delicate variety presents various challenges in the vineyard because mencía is sensitive to disease, can quickly lose acidity, and delivers high-alcohol levels, adds Cellar Tours. However, when mencía is crafted with care, the expressive wines are some of the most compelling, delicious selections from Spain today.
A region filled with mountains and valleys, Wine Tourism Mag says Bierzo benefits from its location nestled between Galicia’s rainy, humid, Atlantic-influenced climate, and Castilla y Leon’s sunshine-filled, continental climate. Wine Enthusiast adds that Bierzo enjoys a balanced growing season thanks to its higher, cooler elevation compared to the rest of the province, resulting in wines showcasing minerality that’s attributed to the region’s slate and schist deposits — a defining element of these expressive wines.
We love the wine with grilled pork belly or roasted mushroom burgers. Though the popularity of the wines has grown in recent years, mencía remains affordable, with options from Losada, Raul Perez, and Avancia often costing less than $20 — making it a good option for a red wine spritzer.
21. Cinsault
Cinsault should hold a permanent position in your wine rack if you are a fan of refreshing, balanced wines with ripe red-fruit flavors. Cinsault, also known as cinsaut or hermitage in South Africa, is a heat-loving red grape from southern France. It is a vigorous vine, producing a lot of fruit each year thanks to its resistance to drought and love of hot, dry growing conditions. But, just because the vine delivers like the “Giving Tree” doesn’t mean the fruit quality is lacking: Cinsault produces clean, crunchy, bright rosé wine and luscious, dry red wines.
Cards of Wine notes cinsault is often used as a blending partner with Rhone varieties in the wines from France’s Rhone Valley and Languedoc-Roussillon. It is also a key part of South Africa’s regional favorite, pinotage, which is blended with pinot noir, the site adds. But, cinsault can easily shine as a single variety wine thanks to its wild red berry and stone fruit flavors. Henry Jeffreys shares in Club Oenologique that today young winemakers are producing high-quality, single-variety South African cinsault wines from old bush vines. The light-bodied wines are low alcohol, refreshing, and affordable, he adds.
Cinsault Rhone blends are perfect pairing partners for hearty, fatty dishes like Irish stew. Cinsault rosé wines are excellent with seafood and shellfish, grilled vegetables, and summer salads. Pop a bottle of single-varietal cinsault wine in the fridge for 15 minutes before opening and sip solo on a lazy summer afternoon.
22. Chambourcin
Mony Knight. Okahu Wines, Northland. One of the few NZ wineries selling Chambourcin.
Chambourcin is a species of grapevines belonging to the Vitis genus in the flowering plant family Vitaceae. It is a French-American interspecific hybrid grape variety used for making wine. Its parentage is uncertain. The hybrid was produced by Joannes Seyve who often used Seibel hybrids produced in the 1860s. The grape has only been available since 1963; it has a good resistance to fungal disease, and is one of the parents of the new disease resistant variety, Regent, which is increasing in popularity among German grape growers.
The grape produces a deep-colored and aromatic wine. It can be made into a dry style or one with a moderate residual sugar level. Chambourcin is a teinturier a grape whose juice is pink or red rather than clear like most red vitis vinifera cultivars.
The red juice fermented over the red skins can produce a very strongly flavoured wine. Most red wines are served at cellar temperature (55-58 degrees F.) to bring out the flavour but some Chambourcin wines have such a strong flavour that it is recommended that they be served chilled.
Chambourcin has been planted widely in the mid-Atlantic region of North America, particularly in such states as New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania. It is also grown in Harrow and Ruthven, Ontario, and in Kelowna, B.C., Canada; several counties in Virginia; Frederick, Washington, Harford, Prince George’s County, Maryland, Calvert County, Maryland, and St. Mary’s County, Maryland; Kent County, Delaware; Monroe County, Indiana; Daviess County, Kentucky; in the Ohio River Valley AVA Ohio; Greenbrier, Calhoun, Roane, and Mineral counties in West Virginia; Allegan County, Michigan; the Shawnee Hills AVA of southern Illinois; the Yadkin Valley and Haw River Valley of North Carolina; Western Tennessee in the Mississippi Delta AVA[3][circular reference]; Missouri; south-central Kansas; Norman Oklahoma; New Zealand’s Northland Region;[4] the Hunter Valley Region of New South Wales and other warm, humid regions in Australia; also in France and Portugal.
The Jura is a wine-growing region in Eastern France, bordering Switzerland. It sits just to the east of Burgundy but feels a world apart in many ways.
Burgundy is arguably the epicentre of the “fine wine” world (although Bordeaux may have something to say about this), with a long history of monastic and aristocratic estates, tiny plots of globally treasured terroir, and today, massively inflated prices.
The Jura is historically associated with its agricultural traditions of the collective production of Comte cheese, its obscure oxidised wines matured under a veil of yeast and left in barrels for literally years (much like a very cold climate dry sherry), and perhaps for its particular mountain-country style moonshine.
Or, just as likely, it was the admittedly very picturesque backcountry region you passed through on your way to skiing in the Alps. Until 20 years ago, it would be fair to say that most people in France, let alone the rest of the world, barely thought of this quiet, seemingly isolated region as much more than an oddity of the wine world.
But after a week spent tasting the region’s wines and visiting its winemakers, the transformation is startling. Both in terms of the wines being made here and, even more so, the wine world’s perception of the region.
I spent the first two days of my stay at Le Nez dans le Vert (the name translates literally as Nose in the Green, but is a play on Nose in the Glass, with a wink to organics), a wine fair featuring a line-up of many of the best organic wine producers of the region.
Since all of the stars of the region farm organically, that means, in practical terms, that is really a collection of simply the region’s best wines.
This is part of the region’s transformation and the attention it is now receiving. Small, determined, and very hands-on family-run estates committed to laborious viticulture, have shone a spotlight on the incredible potential of the region’s unique soils and its cold climate to produce astounding and nuanced wines.
NACHO DOMÃNGUEZ ARGENTA/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.”
While this is also true of changes in many grape-growing regions over the last couple of decades, the underlying factor in the Jura is they are exceptionally blessed in terms of “terroir”, and much of its potential is yet to be discovered.
When I first attended Le Nez dans le Vert around a decade ago, the wines were already great, but as a buyer, you always felt you could largely give or take what you wanted. This time, as I visited winemakers, I met buyers, journalists and wine fans from Munich, Amsterdam, Rome, London, New York, Tokyo and Seoul.
The global thirst for Jura wines is seemingly unquenchable. Somewhat victims of their own success, many of the winemakers at the tasting spent much of their time apologetically explaining why they couldn’t sell wine to new clients. Demand now greatly outruns supply.
I’m pretty sceptical about hype in the wine world; for whatever reason, it’s a business that seems to invite hyperbole, but after a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.
And there’s plenty to say they are going to get even better. I’ve met many exciting, driven young winemakers making their first wines for every “star” of the region whose wines and vineyards I was looking forward to visiting before I got here.
Some locals and others from all corners of the globe came to the region to work for and learn from the trailblazing generation before them, who are now putting down roots in the Juracian soil and pushing even further forward.
Much like its wines, the region is charged with energy and life today. As much as there are many reasons for optimism for the region’s future, especially if, like me, you find yourself seduced by its wines, there are twin menaces on the horizon.
The first is the effect of climate change. In one sense, the general warming of the planet is something that has driven interest in traditionally cooler regions like the mountainous Jura. But with it, global warming has also brought unpredictable and dramatic weather events. The 2021 vintage in Jura was hit with a double blow of heavy frosts in early spring, killing off much of the early season growth, and then weeks of rain throughout the summer, creating significant problems with mildew and odium.
BIG DODZY/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.” In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura.
Winemakers have recounted losses of production of up to 85%. The financial pressure that creates is very difficult to bear for a region based on small family-run farms. Similar climatic events have menaced several of the last decade’s harvests.
The cruel irony is that just as the hard-earned attention of the wine world has turned to Jura, the hard-working winemakers have nowhere near enough wine to satisfy that demand and finally see financial returns on years of commitment and investment.
Although it was alarming to see up close, I was aware of the problems with yield from conversations with friends and winemakers before my trip. What I hadn’t expected was the effect of the global wine market on the region, or more specifically, on the access of the region’s wines to wine lovers.
I encountered many stories of Jura wine bottles 10-15 years ago that was easily accessible to anyone but are now being traded on grey markets at prices in excess of 1000 euros a bottle. Speculation is a menace for genuinely interested consumers and winemakers who are still selling their wine for more or less the same low prices as they have for years in the hope their wines end up in the glasses of enthusiastic wine lovers.
As small artisan producers are struggling to keep going in the face of diminished yields, speculators are making fortunes and inflating the market beyond the reach of most. It seems anathema to the spirit of this wild, strange and beautiful region. And again, I’m reminded that Burgundy is so close by.
In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura. As befits this off-centre region, it’s tricky to recommend specific wines, as availability is complicated. Best try tracking these wines down either directly through their importers or at one of the following switched-on wine bars or restaurants.
In Auckland, try out Star Superette or their affiliated restaurant Bar Celeste, both on Karangahape Rd, or take a trip to Cave a Vin on the North Shore. In Wellington, the restaurant Highwater or wine bar Puffin are good ports of call if you want an introduction to Jura wine. Gatherings in Christchurch are a good starting point for those curious about Jura wines in the South Island.
Maison Vauron is the New Zealand importer of cult southern Jura winemaker J-F Ganevat and also of the trailblazing Domaine Tissot, who makes stellar oxidative wines. Domaine du Pelican is the Jura project of the esteemed Burgundy producer Guillaume d’Angerville, based on their purchase of the estate of the “Pope of the Jura” Jacques Puffeney. In New Zealand, their wines are imported by Peter Maude Fine Wines.
Domaine Bottes Rouges are one of the many new ambitious producers of the region. Their wines are imported to New Zealand by Wine Diamonds.
Contact any of the above to find out what Jura gems are available and where to find them.
Industry experts have warned that food and drink are tasting different to how they did before the pandemic CREDIT: Xurxo Lobato/Cover
Is your pinot noir smelling a little funk? Perhaps your chips are on the salty side, or your chocolate is strangely bitter?
Industry experts warn that food and drink are tasting different to how they did before the pandemic because so many sommeliers and expert tasters lost their sense of taste and smell after catching covid.
Wine producers and research chefs were impaired and food product teams were forced to come up with alternative ways of deciding on flavours and formulas with some bypassing research chefs and tasting panels altogether.
The unfortunate predicament has forced some sommeliers and chefs to keep their condition quiet, while others have signed up for courses to retrain their senses in secret.
Lockdowns have affected our palates, experts say CREDIT: E+
The winners were companies like Analytical Flavour Systems, a United States business that uses artificial intelligence to model people’s preferences when it comes to flavour, aroma and texture.
Derailed by anosmia – the partial or full loss of smell – many food producers bypassed their usual approach of asking research chefs to come up with gold-standard recipes and went straight to their A1 platform instead. ‘The pandemic was very good for our business,’ said Analytical Flavour Systems founder and chief executive Jason Cohen. ‘Companies couldn’t hold tasting panels because of social distancing rules, and when chefs couldn’t taste, we had more companies coming directly to us.’
The experience of lockdowns has also affected people’s palates, and will also start to seep into the recipes and formulas that are made. For example, while stuck at home, people drank fewer soft drinks, which has lowered their tolerance for artificial sweeteners. ‘Quarantine has been the largest consumer shock since rationing. We’re seeing huge shifts,’ Cohen said. ‘The world is not going to taste the same as it did before Covid.’
Are your chips a little too salty? CREDIT: Clara Molden/Clara Molden
Analytical Flavour Systems has in the past been asked to help reformulate recipes for cancer patients and the elderly. Cohen said this could start to happen if it became clear that people’s senses had been permanently affected by Covid.
Across the industry, experts have been retraining their senses, from wine producers and restaurant sommeliers to food and drink tastes. ‘It will have affected the production of wine. I will have been asking for a second opinion by getting another professional to help,’ said Federica Zanghirella, vice-president of the UK Sommelier Association.
Zanghirella, who temporarily lost her sense of smell in the middle of a class she was leading in March 2020, added; ‘Some students say they couldn’t tell their bosses or head sommeliers, because it was too risky for their careers, so they had to use their knowledge of ingredients and flavours.’
She added that restaurant sommeliers, who pair wines with dishes on-site, had been struggling in particular.
Industries beyond food and drink have also been affected. Isabelle Gelle, the founder of the Perfumery Art School, said half of her students were now retraining after losing their sense of smell. Her clients run businesses across Britain, including soap and scents candle shops.
Drink up NZ’s rich history with a trip to one of our venerable vineyards, writes Jo Burzynska.
Sauvignon Blanc has the wow factor in Marlborough. Photo / MarlboroughNZ
On September 25, 1819, the Anglican missionary Reverend Samuel Marsden recorded planting the first grapevines in New Zealand in the grounds of the Stone Store, Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands. Sadly these never produced wine, allegedly being gobbled by local goats. Nevertheless, the promise that Marsden perceived for wine in Aotearoa has now been amply proven, and can be experienced alongside its history at vinous milestones that span the length of the country.
Bay of Islands – Vine Zero
Marsden Estate in Wiroa Road, Kerikeri. Photo / Supplied
Greater wine-growing success was achieved with the arrival of British wine enthusiast, James Busby to the Bay of Islands. He made New Zealand’s earliest recorded wine from vines planted in his grounds at Waitangi in 1833, described by French explorer Dumont d’Urville as “delicious”. While the wine industry followed more suitable climes and moved south, good wines still hail from this historic region. Head to Marsden Estate in Kerikeri, established 176 years after its namesake planted his vines. Select six wines to try at its cellar door, or grab a glass to savour in its subtropical – and goat-free – vineyard gardens or at its restaurant.
Gisborne – Organic Trailblazer
Millton, New Zealand’s first biodynamic vineyard. Photo / Supplied
Long before the New Zealand wine industry promoted its wines as the riches of a clean green land, James and Annie Millton were walking the talk. The couple established the country’s first organic and biodynamic wine estate in 1984 with the planting of their first vineyard near Manutuke where earlier settlers had planted grapevines in 1871. They now combine classic wines like their chardonnay with edgier examples in the skin-fermented whites of the Libiamo range influenced by the younger generation of Milltons. Sample these at their cellar door, set in beautifully landscaped grounds complete with olive grove.
Hawke’s Bay – Oldest Winery
Mission Estate Winery in Hawke’s Bay. Photo / Mission Estate
Christian orders helped spread the vine as well as their religion around the world, and it was Marist missionaries that transplanted vines from Bay of Islands to Hawke’s Bay, and in 1851 built the country’s oldest winery, Mission Estate. Its cellar door, housed in an imposing former seminary building, offers seated tastings that include insights into its history. Visitors can then wander through its underground cellar and extensive gardens that look out to sea, with an option to dine in its recently refurbished restaurant.
Wairarapa – Pinot’s First Place
Guests enjoying the sun at Ata Rangi vinyards, Martinborough. Photo / Pete Monk
New Zealand’s potential for Pinot Noir can be traced back to Wairarapa, where in the early 1880s Frenchwoman Marie Zelie Beetham and her husband William, planted the country’s first pinot vineyard near Masterton. Temperance put paid to that endeavour, but pinot noir grows once again at one of their vineyard sites, now Lansdowne Estate. Martinborough pioneers, such as Ata Rangi’s Clive Paton, then founded the modern pinot industry in 1980s. Ata Rangi continues to produce some of the country’s finest examples, which can be explored, along with its history, through intimate tastings held in their charming old winery cellar door.
Nelson – South Island Pioneers
The Neudorf Winery, Nelson. Photo / Supplied
In the early days of New Zealand wine, most vineyards were planted in the North Island as it was considered grapes couldn’t ripen further south. However, in the 1970s some brave souls started to plant vines on the mainland, including Tim and Judy Finn who founded Neudorf in Nelson when nobody knew what varieties might thrive there. Now they make some of the country’s top chardonnay and pinot noir.
These can be enjoyed at their cute cellar door overlooking their first Home Block vineyard, where picnic fare can also be selected from the “baby deli”.
Marlborough – Sauvignon Country Roots
Sauvignon Blanc has the wow factor in Marlborough. Photo / MarlboroughNZ
Our flagship Marlborough sauvignon blanc is a fairly new phenomenon. Planted there in 1973, on what is now Brancott Estate Vineyard, it went on to wow the world when Hunter’s Sauvignon Blanc won the UK’s prestigious Sunday Times Vintage Festival in 1986. Hunter’s still excels at sauvignon, as well as sparkling wines, which are shared in its farmhouse tasting room set in tranquil native gardens. The next generation continues to innovate, with the experimental Offshoot range that includes a naturally sparkling sauvignon “pet-nat”. Marlborough’s earliest history can be encountered at Auntsfield Estate, the site of the region’s first commercial vineyard and winery founded by David Herd in the 1870s. Take in the historic sites, such as the restored 1873 rammed earth cellar, on a vineyard tour and taste the impressive wines made by the Cowley family who re-established vines on the property.
Canterbury – Humble Beginnings
Take a trip around New Zealand’s oldest vineyards and wineries. Photo / Graeme Murray
An important chapter of Canterbury’s contemporary wine history started three decades ago in a Christchurch garage. This belonged to neurologist Ivan Donaldson, whose winemaking hobby resulted in Pegasus Bay, which went on to become a flagship winery of the region. Knowledgeable staff at its Waipara cellar door can talk you through its exciting range of wines. These can also be partaken of in the winery’s fabulous gardens or inside by the fire as part of a picnic of local fare from the mini deli it launches in December.
Central Otago – Natural Succession
Looking down over its sloping vineyards to Lake Wanaka, the views from Rippon vineyard are iconic. Photo / David Wall
It’s rare for a family to spend over a century cultivating their land, never mind close to 40 years in the wine-growing industry in New Zealand – and even rarer in Central Otago, where the wine industry only took off in recent decades. However, Rippon has long and strong ties to their special land, now managed biodynamically by second-generation winegrower Nick Mills. The views from Rippon Hall, where its cellar door is situated, are iconic, looking down over its sloping vineyards to Lake Wānaka and the mountains. Rippon’s site-expressive wines are equally spectacular.
Our Aussie evening with Keith Tibble (and his Manager Nick), from EuroVintage, was information filled and a great voyage of discovery of the three Western Australian vineyards – Sandalford, Xanadu and Moss Wood.
Our intrigue was sated, and the tasting was a really good experience of the different vineyards and the different categories of wines on offer.
As a reminder the vineyards we were introduced to were:
Sandalford
Xanadu
Moss Wood
Wines presented include:
2018 Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon
2019 Xanadu Exmoor Chardonnay
2018 Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay
2018 Sandalford Margaret River Shiraz
2018 Xanadu DJL Shiraz
2017 Sandalford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2017 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Cabernet Sauvignon
We had good numbers attend, 44 in total and orders were excellent.
Huon Hooke, June 5, 2021, The Sydney Morning Herald’s wine writer has released his Australia’s 52 top wineries: the 2021 list.
Bushfires, drought, export problems, a pandemic … the past year has thrown many challenges at Australian winemakers. Remarkably, though, their output quality has remained high. Here, Huon teams up again with The Real Review to bring you the country’s top producers.
Fifteen different wineries feature this year that weren’t in 2020’s Top 52, but while that means 15 from last year didn’t make it, there’s a cigarette paper between them, as the standard is so high.
Check out The Real Review‘s full list of more than 400 top wineries and for Good Weekend’s top 52 from that list.
A dearth of grapes this vintage has forced a family-owned winery in Marlborough to turn down a new customer in Europe. But it’s not just the smaller operations struggling. One of the biggest players in the global drinks industry, Pernod Ricard, is also reporting it is unable to meet the global demand for Marlborough wine this year, in particular sauvignon blanc, due to the region’s low yield.
One estimate puts the take of sauvignon blanc grapes down 30 per cent against long-term averages, due to early frosts and cool weather during the flowering season.
A Pernod Ricard Winemakers spokesperson said the company was in talks with its partners to determine how it should prioritise supply for customers “in the context of the strong ongoing global demand for the sauvignon blanc category”.
The volume shortage meant the family-owned Marisco Vineyards had to walk away from a deal in Germany to make sure it could supply its long-time customer base.
Marisco Vineyards general manager sales and marketing Siobhan Wilson said the winery, which employs about 80 people, didn’t want to sacrifice one market for another.
“The key focus for us this year is to look after the partnerships we’ve developed over the years … We have a long-term contract with annual supply conversations starting around January-February, which is tricky as vintage happens [March-April].
“So I have to take what our customers would like versus what we have got coming in.”
Marisco started blending this week, so it would have a full picture of what was available, and when, in the next couple of weeks, Wilson said.
New Zealand Winegrowers chief executive Philip Gregan said Aotearoa hit a record-breaking $2 billion in New Zealand wine exports at the end of last year. “Exports to our key international markets have increased beyond expectations over the past 18 months, and we saw an increase of 19 per cent for the first four months of the new export year (July to October 2020), at the same time in 2019.
“We are already seeing supply and demand tension as a result, and we expect that many wineries will face tough decisions on who they can supply in their key markets over the next year,” Gregan said.
And while increased demand and reduced supply might push up prices, Wilson said they had to be careful.
“We are not just going to put the price up because it is in short supply, because next year what happens if we have a bumper vintage, and we’ve got plenty of wine, do you then discount it?
“What is important when you are selling wine, and when you are building a brand, is a consistency of quality and price.
“So, we all have a responsibility to ensure that we sell at a good price and the right price,” Wilson said.
Ongoing labour shortages, due to the closure of New Zealand’s borders and the restricted number of RSE workers, had also piled pressure onto wine companies.
Wilson said they had challenges coming at them every day and a short vintage was just one of them.
“We have got massive challenges in Marlborough getting wine shipped offshore because of the shortages of boats coming in, the restriction of space … and it is all the result of the pandemic.
“At Marisco Vineyards we are really resilient, my team have been working for me for a long time, and they have experienced many challenges over the year, so we just deal with it.
“The key thing is the communication with our customers and being really honest with them about the situation,” she said.
