Sauvignon blanc land in Marlborough sells for over $400,000 per hectare, a 60% increase on previous highs

Gerhard Uys, Stuff | Jul 31 2023

Sauvignon blanc grapes at Alapa Vineyard Services in Blenheim.
Sauvignon blanc grapes at Alapa Vineyard Services in Blenheim.

Prices for sauvignon blanc vineyards in Marlborough have topped $400,000 per hectare this year, up by almost 60% on past record, the Real Estate Institute says.

Andy Poswillo​, director for Colliers in Marlborough said it was a big jump from the $270,000 per hectare that the best vineyards fetched for a long time.

A number of factors influenced the price, he said.

The best vineyards delivered consistent high-quality yields, Poswillo said.

The land that attracted the most interest was not under any contractual obligations and buyers could “do what they wanted with the fruit,” he said.

Investors looked at the rate of return and the value of a vineyard came down to yield and location, he said.

Water availability and security was a major contributor to the value of land.

The price per tonnes of grapes made land attractive, he said.

Sauvignon blanc grapes harvested recently sold for up to $2200 per tonne, Poswillo said.

Real Estate Institute rural spokesperson Shane O’Brien said these sales were the only “bright spot” in the rural property market as sales continued to decline compared to last year.

The institute’s data showed there were 166 fewer farm sales for the three months ended May than for the same three months ended May 2022.

“The reduced number of sales is impacted by buyers continuing to take a wait-and-see approach to buying amidst the backdrop of higher interest rates, farm expenses increasing and lower farm incomes off the back of adverse weather and challenging economic conditions,” O’Brien said.

O’Brien said the sale of two established vineyards was at a price per hectare never seen before.

“In Marlborough sales are now being reported at record levels for good quality sauvignon blanc land and more land is being acquired for further development in grapes,” he said.

The recent uptick in wine exports and free-trade agreement with the UK gave the industry “renewed confidence,” O’Brien said.

Chief executive of New Zealand Winegrowers Philip Gregan said earlier this month wine exports for the year to May were worth $2.4 billion, up 25% on last year.

Sarah Wilson, general manager for advocacy at New Zealand Winegrowers, said under the UK free-trade agreement technical barriers to trade would be removed, and certification and labelling requirements minimised.

Marcus Pickens, general manager for Wine Marlborough, said the phenomenon of good sales for sauvignon blanc vineyards was not new, with ongoing growth in the industry for the last 30 years.

“It’s a continuation of the growth trajectory.

“There could have been an uptick and land conversion into viticulture. The world discovered sauvignon blanc in the 1980s and there’s been growing demand ever since. Other varieties grow very well, but sauvignon blanc gets all the attention,” Pickens said.

Marlborough had “nice warm days” in the growing season and “quite cold nights which was good for flavour development,” he said.

Marcus Pickens says sauvignon blanc gets all the attention in New Zealand.
Marcus Pickens says sauvignon blanc gets all the attention in New Zealand.

Of Marlborough’s about 30,000 hectares of vineyards, about 24,000ha was planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Pickens said.

The vineyard area grew by 29% in the last 10 years, but it was hard to say if this trend would continue, he said.

Marlborough had a record harvest last year, after a small harvest in 2021 brought about by poor fruit set, he said.

This year’s harvest was marginally less than last year because of an abnormal summer, Pickens said.

“As a wine industry we have been careful to map planting planning with consumption demand as we do not want to oversupply the market, just grow our premium offering at the same pace as demand grows,” Pickens said.

The median price per hectare for dairy farms for the three months ended June this year was up 3.1% compared to last year, for finishing farms it was down 4.8%, up 5.3% for grazing farms and down by 25% for horticulture, Real Estate Institute data showed.

Babich Tasting – Aug ’23

Antonia presented us with some of the Babich wines, mainly from Marlborough, where their new winery is situated. Their base is still in the Henerson Valley, where the Babich family first settled.

Antonia regaled us with the Babich family members’ comings to New Zealand at an unsettled time for the world and why they turned to making wine, with their increasing presence here and their increasing knowledge base. An interesting evening for everyone.

The different labels certainly made for an interesting evening.

A reminder of the wines we tasted during the evening:

  • Family Estates Marlborough Organic Rosé
  • 2022 Family Estates Organic Albarino
  • 2022 Family Estates Organic Chardonnay
  • 2022 Irongate Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay
  • 2021 Black Label Pinot Noir
  • 2021 Classics Hawkes Bay Syrah
  • 2017 Irongate Cabernet Merlot Franc

Clearview Wines, presented by Tim Turvey – Sept 2023

Wednesday 13th September, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $10 / Guests $14

Clearview Estate has grown and owner-operated since 1986: Tim Turvey & Helma van den Berg.

TIM TURVEY & HELMA van den BERG
TIM TURVEY & HELMA van den BERG

Purchased in 1986, the neglected but historic Vidal’s No.2 Vineyard at Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay, was set to become Clearview Estate. Tim Turvey, with business partner Helma van den Berg, took on the challenge of bringing it back to life. Together, they hand-grafted and planted the first vines in the winter of 1988. Clearview Estate Winery Ltd was established for the first red wine vintage in 1989, following experimentation in prior years. Chardonnay began in 1991 with the release of the first Reserve Chardonnay.

Over the next several years, Tim and Helma planted thousands of trees, including avocado, olive, bay, citrus, gums, and melia. And they didn’t stop there. Together, they expanded the vineyard by three acres each year, grafting and planting vines, ramming posts, running wires, training young vines, and, for many years, completing all of the pruning themselves.

Today, the business proudly remains owner-operated. Tim oversees the vineyards and works with chief winemaker Matt Kirby and assistant winemaker Rob Bregmen to create legendary, much-awarded wines. Helma manages the finance, restaurant, gardens and her extraordinary team. Steeped in history, Clearview Estate Winery Cellar Door and Clearview Estate Restaurant have become an iconic and awarded destinations for both locals and visitors from afar.

194 Clifton Road, Te Awanga, Hastings, Hawke’s Bay.

Wines for our evening:

  • 2021 Clearview Sparkling Blush arrival wine
  • 2023 Clearview Coastal Pinot Gris
  • 2022 Clearview White Caps Chardonnay
  • 2020 Clearview Reserve Semillon
  • 2021 Clearview Martinborough Pinot Noir
  • 2021 Clearview Cape Kidnappers Syrah
  • Clearview Sea Red Dessert Wine [500ml]

Mid-Winter Club Dinner at Le Marche Francais, July ’23

The evening was a success, as usual, with 36 happy diners.

On arrival, complimentary petite onion tarts were handed out with Club’s bubbles, followed by miniature croque-monsieur, before we sat down to start our meal.

The tables were set up for lots of mingling, wine-sharing and chatting.

As a reminder, our menu for the evening was:

  • Entrée 3 mini entrees served to each person
    (Quiche Lorraine, petite French onion soup, mini goat cheese salad)
  • Mains
    Beef Bourguignon
    Monkfish with Saffron Sauce
    Chicken Provencal
  • Dessert 3 mini desserts in the style of petite fours

Sadly, local fish supplies could not provide the monkfish, so Chef Vero replaced that with Blue Warehou, which was equally enjoyable.

The evening finished with a nice surprise when Chef Vero served us 5 petite fours to finish the night, all entirely delicious!

Babich Wines w/Antonia Romero, Aug ’23

Sustainably Crafted New Zealand Wine – 100 years in the making

Wednesday 9th August, 8 pm Start
Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18

People thought Josip Babich was crazy back in 1912. Planting vines in West Auckland and then patiently making wine the difficult way – with great vision, graft, thoughtfulness, ingenuity, and true craft. That pioneering spirit is something that still runs deep in our veins today, and we’ll keep ‘paying it forward’ for as long as we exist.

Over 20 years ago, we registered our first sustainable vineyard – a New Zealand first. But we’re not content to look back because what you’ve done is not who you are. We’re more excited about our future than ever and applying 100 years and three generations of winemaking experience to sustainably craft the most drinkable wines from New Zealand to the world.

Sustainability is always better when shared. Babich’s iconic NZ wine regions: Marlborough is home to some of the world’s finest Sauvignon Blanc. And a second home to Babich since we established vineyards there in 1989. Hawkes Bay is internationally renowned for its soil profile – perfect for supple, robust
and sophisticated reds.

Wines for the evening will be:

  • Family Estates Marlborough Organic Rose
  • Family Estates Organic Albarino
  • Family Estates Organic Chardonnay
  • Irongate Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay
  • Black Label Pinot Noir
  • Classics Hawkes Bay Syrah
  • Irongate 2017 Cabernet Merlot Franc

Committee Musings, July 23

Subscription reminder

Please ensure your subscription of $25, due on 1st July, is paid soon. Remember, we don’t send out an invoice. Thanks.

Special General Meeting

At the August Monthly Meeting, for the first 10 minutes, we will hold an SGM to discuss and pass some small changes to the Club’s Constitution. These changes will be circulated shortly and are an update to the wording as it is at present.

Heating

We hope everyone appreciates the new heating in the hall.

Support appreciated

It was great to have everyone help with the tables and chairs at the start of last month’s meeting and take the same down after the meeting. Also, taking the table’s contents: spittoons/water jugs/cracker plates back to the kitchen. Could we please continue this new routine?

Setting-up

Please note, we can’t arrive to do the setting up activities any earlier than 7:30 pm as we interrupt the cleaner(s) schedule, as they are often in the hall until 7:30 pm.

Looking Back – Askerne Vineyard, June 23

John Loughlin from Askerne Vineyard presented to us last month, and he was very pleasantly surprised to find 45 members and guests attending. We have to go way back to 2010 to find that number exceeded, so thank you, everyone, for supporting us with your presence.

John explained that Askerne now has 32ha to grow the 17 varieties of grapes that he and his wife now cultivate, and whilst Askerne is right beside the Tukituki River, they were spared the full force of Cyclone Gabrielle. It could easily have been much worse, as the water rose to 30cm below the top of their stop bank!

Their cellar door is now open 24/7, and John said please visit if you are up in Hawkes Bay for some tastings, He went on to explain that whilst we weren’t tasting these on the night, he felt their Pinot Gris was looking really smart, and their Pinot Noir really good too.

The wines tasted on the night were:

  • 2022 Sérieux Rosé – the welcome wine
  • 2020 Semillon
  • 2022 Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Gewurztraminer
  • Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Late Harvest Semillon

And it was pleasing to note that the quality of these wines was reflected in the excellent number of wines orders received on the night.

So, thanks again to everyone for your support and a special thanks for John for his well delivered tasting presentation.

Club Mid-Winter Dinner, July 23

1st Floor, Woolstore Building, 262 Thorndon Quay, Wellington

Please arrive at 7 pm, no later than 7:15 pm

Where you will be greeted with a glass of Club bubbles

This is a b.y.o. event, so please bring along your best French wine, or two, from your cellars, plus to enhance the atmosphere for the evening, dress with a little je ne sais quoi in red, white and blue!

Below is a reminder of the menu for the evening, noting that you have previously selected your Main course and sent this to Wayne [he will be emailing all attendees to make sure he has recorded your choice correctly and to advise you of your seating number] :

Entrée

3 mini entrees served to each person
(Quiche Lorraine, one soup, mini goat cheese salad)

Mains

Beef Bourguignon
Monkfish with Saffron Sauce
Chicken Provencal

Dessert

3 mini desserts in the style of petite fours

Public transport

If you would like to catch public transport for the evening, please note:

  • Nearby is the motorway overpass and just south of that is bus stop 5492 which is used by bus routes 1, 19e, 24, 25, 26, 52, 56, 57, 58, 60e and 83.
  • When it comes to going home, you can use bus stop 5024 just north of the  motorway overpass. So again, just a short distance away.

Mermaidary tackles the tricky topic of what wines to chill and by how much

Wine News – Imbibe from NZ House & Garden April 2023

Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests - 6-10C
Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne
and late harvests – 6-10C

Mermaidary tackles the tricky topic of what wines to chill and by how much.

What temperature should you serve wine? The topic can be controversial. I have heard gasps of horror when pulling a bottle of chardonnay from the rack, opening and pouring it – bypassing the fridge. I prefer medium to full-bodied white wines at room temperature. And you can imagine the horror when I take a red wine from the fridge because I like reds slightly chilled, flying in the face of ‘the rules for how wine should be served.

The accepted serving temperatures are listed below, but I regularly flout those rules. I like my sparkling whites colder than 6C, which is a cardinal wine sin, but I find it gives the bubbles more vigour. I also enjoy reds when they are well below 13C, as it gives the wine more structure and definition.

In fact, in hotter climates such as in Australia, drinking red chilled is standard practice. Australian wine icon Taylors recently put a wine temperature sensor on its bottles which changes colour when the bottle reaches its optimum level of chill.

One place that always seems to get it wrong is your local bar or restaurant. Bar fridges are set to a standard temperature so juice, wine, beer and even milk are all stored in the same fridge at the same temperature. This means medium-bodied wines, in particular, can be served much too cold, which deadens the wonderful aromatics present in the wine. Red wines are invariably stored on a shelf in direct sunlight or near the warm kitchen. So, the best expression of your favourite wine might not be from your local eatery.

While there are guidelines, the perfect temperature is simply the one that you enjoy best. So open a bottle and you do you.

Agreed serving temperatures

Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests – 6-10C

Roses and light-bodied whites such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris – 8-10C

Medium full-bodied whites such as Chardonnay and Albarino – 10-13C

Light-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir – 10-13C

Medium to full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon – 10-13C

Looking Back, Confident Wines with Victor Kattenbel, April ’23

Wow, nine wines! This was an interesting evening full of updated information about the Esk Valley region and touching on areas of Portugal that most members present haven’t been to yet.

The variety of wines was great, beginning with Linden Sparkling Rose’ from Esk Valley, a blend of Merlot and Pinotage, a delicious start to the evening. The rest of the evening’s selection was:

  • Confidencial Reserva Rose –10-grape blend
  • 2020 Casa Santos Lima Chardonnay
  • 2022 Moutere Hills Riesling
  • 2020Waipara Downs Pinot Noir
  • 2020 Confidencial Tinto-Red  – 10 grape blend
  • 2019 Mosaico De Portugal
  • 2017 Colossal Reserva Casa Santos Lima
  • Parcelas Portuguese Tawny Port

Most of the wines for the evening had received at least one gold medal in competitions, with some receiving ten gold medals.

Askerne, Hawkes Bay with John Loughlin, June ’23

Wednesday 14th June, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $12 / Guests $16

Askerne Estate Winery commenced in April 1993 when wine lovers John and Kathryn Loughlin purchased the original 11.6 hectares site in Te Mata
Mangateretere Road. John and Kathryn had studied winemaking and viticulture in the previous years, with Kathryn, as the more diligent student, achieving the higher grades.

They called the property Askerne, being the olde English name of Kathryn’s birthplace, Askern, in Yorkshire, England.

John took up the role of Finance Manager of the large Richmond Limited meat company to provide the finance for the developing wine venture, and Kathryn assumed management of the vineyard operations.

Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in late 1993, Semillon and Riesling in 1994, Chardonnay in 1995 and Gewürztraminer in 1996. The first wines were made at the Waimarama Estate Winery (then owned by Dr John Loughlin, John’s father) in 1996. These wines were released under their initial white label with green trees.

2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.
2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.

In February 1997, the Askerne cellar door was opened to the public, and it also sold Waimarama Estate’s red wines, including the then-famous Waimarama Dessert Cabernet.

The 1997 vintage produced very fine wines from Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay which confirmed the potential of the site.

Askerne commenced exporting with wines from the 1997 vintage and in 1998 Dr John Loughlin sold Waimarama Estate Winery and from the 1999 vintage Askerne’s wines were made on site.

John last presented to the Club in February 2019 and his presentation was a delight, both because of his delivery and the wines themselves. This month’s tasting promises to be equally compelling as we get the chance to taste the following wines:

  • 2022 Askerne Sérieux Rosé
  • 2020 Askerne Sémillon
  • 2022 Askerne Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Askerne Gewürztraminer
  • Askerne Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2021 Askerne Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Askerne Late Harvest Sémillon

This selection of Hawkes Bay wines promises a lot and I’m sure we will not be disappointed by their taste or quality. Make sure you are there to find out which will be your favourite.

PhD Précis: Lucie Jiraska

Winegrower Staff Reporters | 13 April 2023

Lucie Jiraska. Photo Credit: Sarah Knight
Lucie Jiraska. Photo Credit: Sarah Knight

Lucie Jiraska clearly recalls her first taste of wine, unimpressed by her grandpa’s Cabernet Moravia.

Now she’s working with Auckland University’s Biological Sciences department studying the effect of management on soil biodiversity in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough vineyards.

What drew you to studying soil in New Zealand vineyards?

I was five when my grandpa, a hobby winemaker from the south of the Czech Republic, thought it was about time for me to have my first sip of wine. I vividly remember him being so proud of that batch. The cold of the cellar was seeping through my summer clothes, as he ceremonially withdraw the wine from one of the barrels and I was presented with a tiny glass containing less than a sip of dark ruby liquid. My grandma was strongly arguing against it, but my grandpa was adamant. I took a sip, my face twisted into a forced smile, and I thought, what is this adult madness and why is everyone pretending they like it? I did not want to hurt my grandpa’s feelings, so I pretended I liked the wine as well, but for a long time after, I kept wondering what the wine industry was all about.

It took me another 15 years, and moving to Prague for my bachelor’s and master’s degree in molecular biology and microbiology, to actually start understanding the science behind fermentation, microbes and soils. From there, it was just a small step, supported by a portion of luck, to join the Vineyard Ecosystems (VE) Programme. I was looking for a PhD project right when my current PhD supervisors Professor Matthew Goddard and Dr Sarah Knight were advertising a position. I did not really have to think twice, and I am very happy that I made this decision to join it.

What has your research involved?

My research mostly focuses on the impact of agricultural management on soil microbial communities in vineyards from the Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough regions. I specifically researched how soil microbial communities differ between vineyards using synthetic herbicides and those with alternative undervine management, like cultivation or mowing. I also focused on direct impacts of synthetic and organic fungicides on soil microbes and changes to their functions in response to the application of fungicides.

As a microbial ecologist, I get to go out in the field to collect samples. Samples for the VE Programme were mostly collected by our colleagues at Plant & Food Research in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, but for other aligned projects I was collecting samples of soil, bark, fruit and/or leaves. While I enjoy being outdoors and sampling, a large part of my work is in the laboratory doing either DNA or RNA extractions from samples or using molecular techniques to understand what microbial communities live in our samples. Or I’m in front of a computer bioinformatically processing and statistically analysing the data. This is what I think the most exciting part is, as this is the step where the data begins to make sense and we can start answering our research questions

Who has helped you in your work?

Besides my amazing supervisors, Mat Goddard and Sarah Knight, I would like to acknowledge Beatrix Jones, Victoria Raw, Innocenter Amima, Jed Lennox, Paulina Giraldo-Perez and Soon Lee. And obviously all the winegrowers that allowed us to collect soils and access their sites for so many years!

What are some of the findings in your thesis?

The soil communities between vineyards are highly variable, more than between management regimes. While we found a small but significant effect of management regime on soil microbial composition, we are still in the process of understanding if these small differences do affect their function in the vineyard. Each vineyard seems to be a microbiome soil island where the history of the site is reflected in the soil community.

And while some of the synthetic fungicides we tested directly in the lab had no impact on the soil microbial community composition, we were able to find an impact on microbial function in these soils. Especially those that had a history of repeated exposure to pesticides. These findings suggest that soils do in fact have an “ecological memory”, so what you put in your soils matters, as it may influence how your vineyard responds in the future. However, at this stage we still have a very limited understanding on how it mechanistically works, as soils are extremely complex systems to study. Maybe one day we will be able to design management plans suited for each vineyard, not just generalised guidelines to follow.