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This year your Committee have fronted more than a few of the monthly Club meetings. This has been with a view to not cancelling the monthly meetings when vineyards have had to cancel, sometimes at the last moment!
The variety, information, wine variation and conversations these meetings have generated have been heartening to the various Committee members who have banded together to put these on.
However, the Committee would like to let you know that these are not what we view as the norm, and we hope that 2023 will see less cancelling, better health for everyone, and many more presentations from vineyards and their winemakers.
There was a good turnout for the evening, although numbers were down due to illness, and in one case, nearly the whole table was absent due to Covid. We hope everyone is feeling much better at this stage.
Wayne had organised this evening on his own and had a bit of a shortbread competition with his wife – not mentioning who won!
The first half of the evening was simply tasting some of the wines and discussing the different grapes and countries these came from.
The second half of the evening was a taste and tipple scenario. We had shortbread, strawberries, cheese & crackers, and Christmas cake to sample after we had had our first taste of each wine. This was to see if our taste buds registered any meaningful changes to the taste and texture of the wines.
The wines we sampled were:
First half
Lindauer Free ‘non-alcohol’ Brut was our surprise starter. It was made from Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes and was poured blind. Whist some thought it was closer to a cider in taste and style, nobody guessed what this was correctly!
Tosti Prosecco DOC form the Piedmont region in Italy
Perelada Brut Reserva Carva NV –Spain
Morton Estate Premium Brut – NZ
Second half
Grant Burge Petite Bubbles Dry Sparkling – Australian
Louis Bouillot Perle De Vigne Cremant De Bourgogne – French
Two more mysteries to go with the Christmas Cake to finish off – these were also both poured blind:
Wednesday 14th December is your Cellar Club’s Christmas dinner Being held at Istana Malaysia Restaurant Arrival at 7 pm for seating at 7.30 pm 1-5 Allen Street, Wellington – Directions
Thank you to everyone who let Wayne know whether they would be attending or not. It certainly makes the organising easier, and it is exciting to see that 43 people will attend our final event of the year. This year, as we have shared dishes, there are no meal choices to decide upon. But so there is no confusion on the night, we will still be allocating people to set tables and letting you know your table number before the dinner.
Given there are some members attending the dinner for the first time, it is perhaps an opportune time to mention how our dinners operate.
You are asked to arrive as close to 7 pm as practical. Please don’t turn up early, as it can cause confusion at the venue.
When you arrive, you will be greeted with a complimentary glass of bubbles.
The meal is BYO wine, and your prepaid cost includes corkage. During the evening, it is customary to share the bottle of wine you have brought with your neighbours.
We expect to finish sometime between 9.30 pm and 10 pm, but this is a guideline only, in case you arrange transport home. Please try and stay as flexible as possible.
This is the 30th year of operation for Istana Malaysia, with Danny, the owner/chef, still on board. Everything is prepared fresh in the kitchen daily, guaranteeing quality and enjoyment.
If some members are a little weary about the spiciness of the food, please be assured that everything will be catered to milder tastes for the dishes with extra chillies and tofu on the table for people who want to add it to their plate.
A Reminder: We have planned no dessert for the evening, but please bring your favourite dessert wine, as this will complement both the food and finish the evening off nicely.
French wine producer Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines has bought Central Otago vineyard Akarua Estate, which it hopes will eventually produce 60,000 bottles a year of premium organic pinot noir.
Bordeaux-based Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines received Overseas Investment Office approval to buy the 52-hectare estate, with 34.5ha of vines, in Central Otago’s Bannockburn, along with the Akarua Estate vineyard from New Zealand company the Skeggs Group.
Ariane de Rothschild, president of the Edmond de Rothschild Group, which also owns Marlborough vineyard Rimapere, said the region’s soil was world-famous for its exceptional growing conditions for pinot noir.
She said that the terroir, or environment, at Bannockburn was on par with the Burgundy region in Eastern France.
“The addition of our second New Zealand winery is part of our wider strategy to develop a portfolio of premium international wines from exceptional terroirs.
“Central Otago’s international reputation for pinot noir provides a unique opportunity for us to complete our range and move into the production of organic wines – one of the fastest growing categories,” she said.
Winemaker Ann Escalle, who was technical director at Rimapere before moving to Akarua Estate, said the soil had all the elements they were looking for, and the slope was gentle enough for the vines to be able to develop well.
Akarua Estate vineyard in Central Otago has been sold to Bordeaux-based Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines.
The region’s climate was known for its hot and cold extremes, but the site was not too harsh. At the same time, it was dry and windy enough to keep diseases away.
“We think that what we have here at Akarua is really top potential, and we can bring it to the world. We would like to produce some of the best pinot noirs in the world because it’s possible,” she said.
The vineyard, which produced about 80% pinot noir along with small amounts of chardonnay and riesling, was not organic yet, but work was starting on converting it immediately.
When fully converted and organically certified, the vineyard would produce more than 60,000 bottles of organic wines annually for the international and domestic markets.
The soil had all the elements required, and the slope was gentle enough for the vines to be able to develop well, said Ann Escalle.
The wines would continue to be produced under the Akarua brand. The Akarua Estate vineyard was founded in 1996 by former Dunedin mayor Sir Clifford Skeggs.
Skeggs Group managing director David Skeggs said the new owners had significant global influence and networks and would bring new opportunities for the Central Otago wine industry.
The Skeggs Group would continue to produce its Rua brand from its 90 hectares of established vineyards in the Bannockburn and Pisa sub-regions.
The nine vineyards owned by Edmond de Rothschild Heritage in France, Spain, South Africa, Argentina and New Zealand produced 3.5 million bottles of wine a year.
28 Club members chose to attend this diverse and interesting pink evening, but those that did were pleasantly surprised by most of the wines tasted, educated and now appreciative of Rosés.
From when to drink Rosé, regional styles, and the variety of grapes now used for the various wines, from the opening bubbly, everyone connected with and enjoyed the tastings. Opening with a Toi Toi Sparkling Rosé, which comprised of a mixture of Riesling and Merlot, through to the last McArthur Ridge Lilico Pinot Rosé, the diverseness of the 21st-century Rosés was indeed on display. Rosé is a style of wine, not a grape variety.
The wines were selected from wine sites and supermarkets, which were below the $20 mark, so they can be purchased and enjoyed by everyone the next time they’re shopping or browsing the computer. The wines we sampled during the evening were:
Toi Toi Sparkling Rosé NV – Riesling and Merlot blend from Marlborough
2021 Giesen Estate Riesling Blush – from Marlborough and Waipara
2022 ME by Matahiwi Estate – Pinot Noir from Masterton this was thought to be the best value for money in wines
2021 Haha Hawkes Bay Rosé – Merlot and Malbec from Hastings and Bridge Pa this is a Bordeaux blend with added Cab Sauv and Cab Franc
2020 Left Field Moon Shell Moth Rosé – Arneis, Pinotage and Merlot from Hastings
2020 Middle Earth Pinot Meunier – a faux pas for the evening, turned out to be red! A Pinot Meunier – this was enjoyed by everyone nonetheless and will go on to be purchased
2019 Spade Oak Voysey Blonde Rosé – Tempranillo, Albarino, Syrah, Viognier and St Laurent from Gisborne – this was indeed Blonde! And was a special blend as this vineyard has been on-sold since this mixture was bottled
2019 McArthur Ridge Lilico Pinot Rosé – Pinot Noir – from Central Otago
This will be an evening to remember: Club bubbles on arrival, shared meal dishes – some new/some old favourites, b.y.o. wines to share – perhaps try and match your bottle with Malaysian food – Gertz, Riesling, a Rose’, Pinot Noir or a Cabernet Sauvignon.
This is the 30th year of operation for Istana Malaysia, with Danny, the owner/chef, still on board. Everything is prepared fresh in the kitchen daily, guaranteeing quality and enjoyment.
We have planned no dessert for the evening, but please bring your favourite dessert wine, as this will complement both the food and finish the evening off nicely.
PLEASE NOTE: This will be on our usual Wednesday night, 14th December -not on a Saturday, arriving at 7 pm for a 7:30 pm start. The cost is $50 per head incl. GST and corkage.
January – The Club BBQ
A great way to kick the 2023 tasting year off. Details to follow.
From weekend brunches to housewarming parties to casual happy hours at home, popping a bottle of bubbles generally promises a good time. However, knowing what you’re drinking and which bubbles to seek out is key.
This month the club intends to present a number of different wine styles of quite a diverse quality in the hope that we can make your Christmas buying a little easier and more informed.
And our plan is to do so in a number of different ways, some of which will be with nibbles, whilst others may require a little deduction on your part to decide what is in your glass.
The wines are currently being sourced, but our plan is to include wines from around the world that will reflect the varying degrees of dryness/sweetness that is typical of the areas being tasted. These are likely to include Prosecco, a Cava, Champagne and several Méthode Traditionnelle wines from elsewhere.
We don’t want to say much more for fear of spoiling the surprise, But the slightly higher door price reflects some of the quality you will taste and some of the additional costs of bringing this tasting to you.
We look forward to you joining us for this fun evening with bubbles.
The Jura is a wine-growing region in Eastern France, bordering Switzerland. It sits just to the east of Burgundy but feels a world apart in many ways.
Burgundy is arguably the epicentre of the “fine wine” world (although Bordeaux may have something to say about this), with a long history of monastic and aristocratic estates, tiny plots of globally treasured terroir, and today, massively inflated prices.
The Jura is historically associated with its agricultural traditions of the collective production of Comte cheese, its obscure oxidised wines matured under a veil of yeast and left in barrels for literally years (much like a very cold climate dry sherry), and perhaps for its particular mountain-country style moonshine.
Or, just as likely, it was the admittedly very picturesque backcountry region you passed through on your way to skiing in the Alps. Until 20 years ago, it would be fair to say that most people in France, let alone the rest of the world, barely thought of this quiet, seemingly isolated region as much more than an oddity of the wine world.
But after a week spent tasting the region’s wines and visiting its winemakers, the transformation is startling. Both in terms of the wines being made here and, even more so, the wine world’s perception of the region.
I spent the first two days of my stay at Le Nez dans le Vert (the name translates literally as Nose in the Green, but is a play on Nose in the Glass, with a wink to organics), a wine fair featuring a line-up of many of the best organic wine producers of the region.
Since all of the stars of the region farm organically, that means, in practical terms, that is really a collection of simply the region’s best wines.
This is part of the region’s transformation and the attention it is now receiving. Small, determined, and very hands-on family-run estates committed to laborious viticulture, have shone a spotlight on the incredible potential of the region’s unique soils and its cold climate to produce astounding and nuanced wines.
NACHO DOMÃNGUEZ ARGENTA/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.”
While this is also true of changes in many grape-growing regions over the last couple of decades, the underlying factor in the Jura is they are exceptionally blessed in terms of “terroir”, and much of its potential is yet to be discovered.
When I first attended Le Nez dans le Vert around a decade ago, the wines were already great, but as a buyer, you always felt you could largely give or take what you wanted. This time, as I visited winemakers, I met buyers, journalists and wine fans from Munich, Amsterdam, Rome, London, New York, Tokyo and Seoul.
The global thirst for Jura wines is seemingly unquenchable. Somewhat victims of their own success, many of the winemakers at the tasting spent much of their time apologetically explaining why they couldn’t sell wine to new clients. Demand now greatly outruns supply.
I’m pretty sceptical about hype in the wine world; for whatever reason, it’s a business that seems to invite hyperbole, but after a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.
And there’s plenty to say they are going to get even better. I’ve met many exciting, driven young winemakers making their first wines for every “star” of the region whose wines and vineyards I was looking forward to visiting before I got here.
Some locals and others from all corners of the globe came to the region to work for and learn from the trailblazing generation before them, who are now putting down roots in the Juracian soil and pushing even further forward.
Much like its wines, the region is charged with energy and life today. As much as there are many reasons for optimism for the region’s future, especially if, like me, you find yourself seduced by its wines, there are twin menaces on the horizon.
The first is the effect of climate change. In one sense, the general warming of the planet is something that has driven interest in traditionally cooler regions like the mountainous Jura. But with it, global warming has also brought unpredictable and dramatic weather events. The 2021 vintage in Jura was hit with a double blow of heavy frosts in early spring, killing off much of the early season growth, and then weeks of rain throughout the summer, creating significant problems with mildew and odium.
BIG DODZY/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.” In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura.
Winemakers have recounted losses of production of up to 85%. The financial pressure that creates is very difficult to bear for a region based on small family-run farms. Similar climatic events have menaced several of the last decade’s harvests.
The cruel irony is that just as the hard-earned attention of the wine world has turned to Jura, the hard-working winemakers have nowhere near enough wine to satisfy that demand and finally see financial returns on years of commitment and investment.
Although it was alarming to see up close, I was aware of the problems with yield from conversations with friends and winemakers before my trip. What I hadn’t expected was the effect of the global wine market on the region, or more specifically, on the access of the region’s wines to wine lovers.
I encountered many stories of Jura wine bottles 10-15 years ago that was easily accessible to anyone but are now being traded on grey markets at prices in excess of 1000 euros a bottle. Speculation is a menace for genuinely interested consumers and winemakers who are still selling their wine for more or less the same low prices as they have for years in the hope their wines end up in the glasses of enthusiastic wine lovers.
As small artisan producers are struggling to keep going in the face of diminished yields, speculators are making fortunes and inflating the market beyond the reach of most. It seems anathema to the spirit of this wild, strange and beautiful region. And again, I’m reminded that Burgundy is so close by.
In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura. As befits this off-centre region, it’s tricky to recommend specific wines, as availability is complicated. Best try tracking these wines down either directly through their importers or at one of the following switched-on wine bars or restaurants.
In Auckland, try out Star Superette or their affiliated restaurant Bar Celeste, both on Karangahape Rd, or take a trip to Cave a Vin on the North Shore. In Wellington, the restaurant Highwater or wine bar Puffin are good ports of call if you want an introduction to Jura wine. Gatherings in Christchurch are a good starting point for those curious about Jura wines in the South Island.
Maison Vauron is the New Zealand importer of cult southern Jura winemaker J-F Ganevat and also of the trailblazing Domaine Tissot, who makes stellar oxidative wines. Domaine du Pelican is the Jura project of the esteemed Burgundy producer Guillaume d’Angerville, based on their purchase of the estate of the “Pope of the Jura” Jacques Puffeney. In New Zealand, their wines are imported by Peter Maude Fine Wines.
Domaine Bottes Rouges are one of the many new ambitious producers of the region. Their wines are imported to New Zealand by Wine Diamonds.
Contact any of the above to find out what Jura gems are available and where to find them.
What a great turnout for our Trifecta event from the Hawkes Bay vineyards!
This event was well attended by Club members, plus we had four guests attend. There were eight wines to sample for the evening, plus the owner Peter Robertson was there to let us in on some of his planting/vineyard secrets.
Peter explained to us how he started his wine career working for McWilliams making a rose spritzer that they used to export to Fiji! Times have certainly changed as have tasted in the 21st century.
2022 Fiesta Rose – a Syrah dominant variety, floral with strawberry and melon on the tongue
2022 Robertson Pinot Gris – this variety was from Brother John of Mission wines who introduced Peter to a 15-year-old bottle of this Pinot!
2021 Bergman Chardonnay – named after the Ingrid Bergman roses on their property. A more modern style rather than the heavy buttery style of old
2021 Barrique Fermented Viognier – surprisingly smooth in the mouth with fresh mineral notes
2021 Back Block Syrah – this variety had its first vintage in 2000, spicy and this is their biggest-selling wine!
2020 Ohiti Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – light and spicy but smooth with a year in old oak
2021 Hillside Syrah – actually grown on land that Peter was invited to use to grow grapes. Woody but smooth in the mouth.
2019 Reserve Vintage Gold Label Cabernet Merlot – a Bordeaux style wine, black fruits with subtle spice, this is wine is closed with the traditional cork stopper.
Our thanks go to Peter for his generous support for the Club, and to members for their support through the volume of sales.
Wednesday 12th October | Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18
Pretty in pink
Rosé wine is an exciting and diverse category. New Zealand Rosé comes in a rainbow of pink hues, from the palest salmon to deep watermelon. Typically, they’re light-bodied, fruit-focused and just off-dry in style. While it’s often associated with Pinot Noir in NZ, this style of wine is no one-trick pony, and there is so much more to discover.
So, join us on Wednesday the 12th Oct, when our panel will take you on a tasting discovery of just what wonderful wines NZ can produce in this style.
Our presentation includes both still and sparkling Rosés, showing delicious aromas and flavours of ripe strawberries, raspberries and crushed cherries, sweet citrus, watermelon, honeydew melon, spices and fresh herbs. And the grapes used in the wines to be tasted will surprise you. They won’t just be Pinot Noir or Merlot dominant.
Here is some more Rosé information that may help in your appreciation of what the tasting may cover.
The specific colour of a given rosé is based on the amount of time that the skins have spent with the juice—though contrary to popular belief, darker-hued rosés are not always sweeter.
Due to their low tannins, high acid, and fruit-forward nature, Rosé—whether still or sparkling—is one of the most versatile, food-friendly wine styles on the planet.
When to Drink Pink? Rosés are perfect for spring and summer, as they are served chilled and can be a refreshing accompaniment to a variety of warm- weather fare. Rosé wines also top the charts for food-friendly versatility, as there’s a Rosé to suit most food types.
Regional styles of Rosé
Rosé styles, hues and myriad varieties are found throughout all of New Zealand’s wine regions, reflecting the fruit freshness and focus for which our wine is renowned.
Hawke’s Bay
Hawke’s Bay is home to a great many of the Merlot and Syrah-based Rosé, with some wines made from a blend of (often Bordeaux) varieties. The moderately-warm climate lends itself to robust, spicy and savoury wines with good depth of flavour.
Marlborough
Pinot Noir is the most common variety used for Marlborough Rosé, with characteristic aromatic intensity, ripe berry fruit and spice, and vibrant, well-balanced palates. There are also some interesting examples using less-common varieties such as Syrah and Montepulciano. Excellent quality Methode Traditionnelle Rosé is made in Marlborough.
Central Otago
The vast majority of Central Otago Rosé is Pinot Noir-based. Packed with bright strawberry, raspberry, ripe cherries and often a touch of spice and fresh herbs, the palate is lively and crisp palates with clean acidity. There are also several very smart examples of Methode Traditionnelle Rosé.
For many, Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine – is very real. If you’ve been faced with surprise houseguests or the need for a quick, last-minute gift, you know the anxiety of an empty wine rack. The fix? An everyday vino with the sass and substance to stand up to any wine-related emergency.
Novinophobia is something that is joked about in the wine-lover community, and several vendors have picked up on this and created funny wine glasses, pillows and other products featuring novinophobia jokes to sell to this niche community. One can also find YouTube videos, Facebook pages and Instagram memes that joke about novinophobia.
Although this phobia creates a lot of laughs within the wine-drinking community, it is a real mental disorder. Individuals with this disorder panic when their wine glasses become empty or almost empty. They remain in a constant state of anxiety as long as no wine is left to drink.
On Wednesday, 3rd August, some Club members attended the last evening meal put on by WelTec’s Bistro52 Training Restaurant for this year. It was a well-balanced and portioned meal with well-matched wines.
The food was prepared, presented, served to a high standard, and was top-grade! The menu we savoured included:
Tasting Menu Sourdough Bread, Cultured Butter, Kapiti Sea Salt
Course One Prawn Chorizo Sausage, Puffed Pork Skin, Scallop XO, Almond Crema, Nashi Pear Compression Wine Match: Sauvignon Blanc Green gages on the tongue, this wine took away some of the saltiness of the food and smoothed things out.
Course Two Salt-Fish & Potato Churro, Fennel Bulb Confit, Saffron & Tomato Sofrito Miso Wine Match: Te Mata Chardonnay Wine toned down the spiciness of the food on the back of the throat, nice.
Course Three Slow Cooked Lamb Rump, Leek Custard, Lost Bread, Puy Lentils, Pickled Mushrooms, Red Wine Salt Wine Match: Babich Syrah Smooth, divine, blackcurrants on the tongue, the food made the wine almost caramelly.
Course Four Hangi – Kumara Steamed Pudding, Kumara Skin Infused Buttermilk Ice-Cream, Spiced Caramel, Torched Mandarin Wine Match: Veuve du Vernay I’m sure we’ve had this at the Cellar Club; bottle fermentation left a light fizzing on the tongue, and the food brought out extra fruit flavours in the wine.
The only query I had for the Maître that evening was course three: at our table, we debated if the ‘lost bread’ that accompanied the lamb rump was a euphemism for mountain oysters! It wasn’t, but the Maître was both amused and said he would speak to the chef about perhaps changing the description of the petite loaf that came as part of the meal!
